Boomerang to Ramshaw Crack

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
5 mins
Uphill

A classic VDiff and some worthwhile routes in the 'orange zone' make this area worth a visit. Those who like their sport delicate and bold are also catered for with the memorable outings of Wickslip and Handrail Direct. Further right is real Ramshaw territory; short routes but savagely steep walls and cracks which will repel all but the most determined of attempts. The classic Ramshaw Crack is a real old-style route for which grades are inadequate and training is inappropriate.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep
6m. The blunt arete is climbed on its right-hand side and has runners at two-thirds height. The final section can be leapt up...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
E4
2
The Wriggler
6m. The twisting crack in the left-hand side of the buttress is as awkward as it looks, and the name tells a tale.
 
Graunchy
HS
3
Arete and Crack
12m. Climb the pleasant arete and the crack just to the left, to a chimney. Bridge this and exit right for the easiest descent.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VD
4
Handrail
14m. Follow Arete and Crack to the break on the right. Swing wildly along this below the overhang to a finish through the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2
5
Handrail Direct
12m. A precarious and unprotected scoop leads to the start of the handrail - scary stuff! Rumoured to be only E1 with a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4
6
Cedez le Passage
12m. Climb the steepening slab until forced left into Handrail Direct. Apparently the direct finish is "impossible"!
 
Technical
Fluttery
E6
7
Assegai
12m. The groove gives awkward climbing especially at the overhang. Best enjoyed on the sharp end.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
8
Bowrosin
16m. Reach the crack via the slab. The bulge just above is tricky and the crack beyond that, more pleasant.
 
1 Stars
VS
9
English Towns
16m. A route that makes the most of the rock to the right of Bowrosin. For the harassed, side-runners can be placed from the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3
10
Boomerang Top 50
16m. The elegant slanting groove is a classic with a steep start then a fine flake forming a mild uphill hand-traverse. The...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
VD
11
Wick Slip
14m. The aesthetic curving arete above the start of Boomerang is precarious and bold. Side-runners in the crack on the left...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
12
Monty
14m. Climb the slab on good pebbles to a crack. Traverse this to its end and finish up the arete. Could do with a direct finish...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
13
Watercourse
14m. The long groove is rarely travelled but is just about worthwhile when dry. Follow the groove past a grass field then take...
2 user comments
 HS
14
Dan's Dare
10m. Climb the green groove and then the arete on the right.
 VS
15
Gully Wall
10m. From a block, climb the side-wall and the prow above.
 HVS
16
Little Nasty
10m. Pull into the crack and climb to a ledge (traditional belay but not necessary). Finish up the wall via a shallow groove....
1 user comment
 E1
17
Electric Savage
12m. A short but impressive outing up the left edge of the giant roof. From above the bulge on Little Nasty, move right along a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3
18
Ramshaw Crack Top 50
12m. Climb a crack on the right (Four Purists, VS 5a) to the shelf (possible belay). From a lying-down position, attack the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E4
19
Never, Never Land
12m. The north-facing wall is arduous and bold. From the top of the crack leap out right to a crappy, creaking flake. Stuff...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7
20
Green Corner
6m. The bounding groove gives pleasant climbing when it isn't too green, though sadly it usually is.
1 user comment
 S
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  • Latest Comments

    For RAMSHAW ROCKS

    Never, Never Land
    "In fact, Master's Edge, a middle of the road E7 is far, far harder. NNL should b..." 05/Feb

    Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep
    "This is the arete left (not right) of The Wriggler." 10/Aug

    Loaf and Cheese
    "Please tell me something has broken off the initial groove - its desperate !" 09/Aug

    Gumshoe
    "Did this on the 13th April. A Large cam (Camelot 4) goes nicely in the pocket an..." 14/Apr

    Gumshoe
    "Backed off this April 2010 as gear slots at the ledge are now sandy holes - very..." 12/Apr

    Imposition
    "Some burly fist-jamming to get round the slight bulge at the start. Felt 5c to m..." 15/Aug

    Electric Savage
    "Two very good and contrasting pitches. The first is more like 6a and the second ..." 26/Jun

    Juan Cur
    "Was originally protected by a large piece of wood 1 x 2 x 2 foot found in someon..." 12/May

    Rubber Crack
    "I don't think this gets done very often. Hard at start and at finish." 21/Apr

    Louie Groove
    "Did this a couple year ago. Agree that its easy for the grade. Hardest moves pro..." 29/Sep

    Magic Roundabout
    "Brialliant route, bomber cams, though too short to get 3 stars." 09/Aug

    Alcatraz
    "More balancy than bold. The final crag is a but wide but easy enough." 23/Jun

    Gumshoe
    "Visited last night and the crux protection is looking extremely worn - no nut pr..." 16/May

    Electric Savage
    "Has anyone done this, the top pitch that is?" 02/Jan

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