Flaky Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Morning sun
8 mins
Uphill

The juggy routes on the well-named Flaky Wall have always been popular. The Flaky Wall routes finish on top of a tower. Belaying is a bit awkward and getting off the summit requires exposed down-climbing or even a simul-ab!
Round to the right is the pleasant and popular slab of Magic Roundabout and below it a short face with three neglected but worthwhile crack climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Zigzag Route
10m. Climb the disjointed cracks in the right wall of the groove, right then left to a final mantel. Steep cracks to the right...
 VD
2
Roller Coaster
10m. The prow has been climbed, but only a couple of times. Climb the arete to the break, head left then ride it!
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E6
3
Boom Bip
10m. The direct line up the buttress requires a BIG dyno to the top of the crag! Gear at half-height protects (sort of).
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E7
4
Imposition
8m. The leaning crack to the right of the prow is an uphill struggle all the way. Big fists and a positive approach will help.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E2
5
Iron Horse Crack
6m. Steam up the short curving, cracked groove in the wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Diff
6
Scooped Surprise
6m. A short diagonal crack gives access to the scoop. Interesting but barely independent.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Fluttery
E3
7
Tricouni Crack
6m. The diagonal crack gives solid jamming though the nail-like pebbles in the crack are not kind to fingers.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HS
8
Rubber Crack
6m. Pull into the flake system and finish up the groove above.
1 user comment
 VS
9
Darkness
12m. Climb the slab to the steep groove on the left. Bridge this then finish up the wide crack on the right.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HS
10
Flake Gully
6m. The gully on the left is a grassy scramble. Continuing to the top of the tower increases the grade (Diff) and quality.
 M
11
Flaky Wall Direct
14m. Take the juggy green streak to a rest then pull left past a rock tooth (which will come off one day - get your belayer to...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
VS
12
Flaky Wall Indirect
16m. From the ledge on Flaky Wall Direct, follow flakes out right then swing round the arete and finish up the exposed face.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
13
Flaky Wall Super Direct
16m. A fine and pumpy start tacking the lower arete on its left.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1
14
Cracked Gully
12m. The right-trending break that splits the face right of centre is fairly straightforward.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Diff
15
Cracked Arete
12m. The juggy arete just right is awkward to start then pleasant.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VD
16
Arete Wall
10m. The groove bounding the buttress is approached via tricky slab. An easier start round to the right is inferior.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
17
Crystal Tipps
8m. Stride onto the slab from the left or pull on direct. Climb to and up the elegant curving flake that hangs above its left...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
18
The Ultra Direct
8m. Scratch and power a way onto the slab then climb rightwards to a finish over the narrowing overlap that caps the wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E2
19
Magic Roundabout Super Direct
8m. Layback up the flake that splits the overhang then step right to climb the slab, finishing to the right of Magic...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1
20
Magic Roundabout Direct
8m. Climb the delicate scoop then move right and follow the green streak boldly to reach a crack and easier ground.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS
21
Magic Roundabout
10m. Start at an alcove then balance precariously up the thin ramp to reach the black flake above the centre of the face.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
S
22
The Delectable Deviation
10m. Foot traverse the handholds of the regular Magic Roundabout to reach the same finish.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS
23
Perched Flake
8m. Climb onto the flake on the right and finish up the rib.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
?? Diff
24
Be Calmed
6m. The highly technical scoop on the back of the tower.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1
25
Force Nine
8m. The pebbly slab direct is harrowing even on a calm day.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4
26
Port Crack
8m. Enter the crack by bridging an awkward groove, or by a traverse from the left, then follow it pleasantly. Sharp!
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
27
Time Out
8m. The central seam is hard where it fades. Stretch up and right to finish up a second shorter crack.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E2
28
Starboard Crack
8m. The right-hand crack is short, sharp and 'ard, with difficulties concentrated in passing the bulge at one third height.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1
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  • Latest Comments

    For RAMSHAW ROCKS

    Never, Never Land
    "In fact, Master's Edge, a middle of the road E7 is far, far harder. NNL should b..." 05/Feb

    Creep, Leap, Creep, Creep
    "This is the arete left (not right) of The Wriggler." 10/Aug

    Loaf and Cheese
    "Please tell me something has broken off the initial groove - its desperate !" 09/Aug

    Gumshoe
    "Did this on the 13th April. A Large cam (Camelot 4) goes nicely in the pocket an..." 14/Apr

    Gumshoe
    "Backed off this April 2010 as gear slots at the ledge are now sandy holes - very..." 12/Apr

    Imposition
    "Some burly fist-jamming to get round the slight bulge at the start. Felt 5c to m..." 15/Aug

    Electric Savage
    "Two very good and contrasting pitches. The first is more like 6a and the second ..." 26/Jun

    Juan Cur
    "Was originally protected by a large piece of wood 1 x 2 x 2 foot found in someon..." 12/May

    Rubber Crack
    "I don't think this gets done very often. Hard at start and at finish." 21/Apr

    Louie Groove
    "Did this a couple year ago. Agree that its easy for the grade. Hardest moves pro..." 29/Sep

    Magic Roundabout
    "Brialliant route, bomber cams, though too short to get 3 stars." 09/Aug

    Alcatraz
    "More balancy than bold. The final crag is a but wide but easy enough." 23/Jun

    Gumshoe
    "Visited last night and the crux protection is looking extremely worn - no nut pr..." 16/May

    Electric Savage
    "Has anyone done this, the top pitch that is?" 02/Jan

    Great Scene Baby
    "The topo shown for this in the guide book is different to that in the Staffs gri..." 12/Sep

    Ramshaw Crack
    "Keep voting E4 - it'll be a disgrace if this creeps into the E5 bracket." 09/Sep top50

    Leeds Slab
    "Definitely Hard Severe if you do the rather artificial and awkward top out. I’ll" 11/Jul

    Arete and Crack
    "Fantastic route but you need to be careful with the exit - you can take the slig..." 20/May

    Louie Groove
    "Easy for the grade." 16/Apr

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