East Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
15 mins
Uphill

The East Buttress is the first section of the cliff encountered on the approach path and is now much easier to view since the felling of trees. It has a low wide wall at its base - the 'Fifty Foot Wall' - topped off with a narrow nose separated by some poorer rock and vegetation. Apart from Varsity Buttress most of the routes see little attention and will probably be heavily vegetated and have sections of poor rock. The buttress gets the early morning sun but will be cold in windy weather.
Approach - The buttress is at the top of the scree slope on the approach path.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Varsity Buttress
A good and reasonably popular route that is fairly exposed in places. Start at the left-hand end of the 'Fifty Foot...
 
1 Stars
VS
2
Vive La Wombat
Start at a pedestal of rock halfway between Varsity Buttress and Epiglottis.1) 5b, 30m. Ascend the grey rounded tower by...
 E2
3
Epiglottis
The first two pitches are run out and loose but the top pitch is good. Start below two cracks.1) 5a, 10m. The steep wall...
 
Strong
Loose
HVS
4
East Climb
Start at the right-hand end of 'Fifty Foot Wall', two poor pitches leads to an exposed finish above the nose.1) 10m. Move...
 
Loose
S
5
Varsity Wall
The blank wall above the start of the top pitch of Varsity Buttress.
 E2
6
Trachea
The short, overhanging and unprotected arete is climbed by big moves on good holds. Short lived but very exposed!
 E1