Long Climb and Tower Face

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
40 mins
Uphill
Windy

The right-hand section of the cliff is the show-piece of the place with an excellent collection of tall climbs on good clean rock. Arrive early for the best conditions, or use the famous bivi-cave for a sleep-over. The usual approach is along the cliff top and down the slope on the right, past the cave.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Siren's Rock
Start on the right and climb the arete to an alarming widening. Thrash up this, or better climb the exposed face to the right...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
S
2
Priscilla Ridge
The fine arete is still a lonely lead and was a great effort for its day. Climb the lower arete to a ledge, pull over the...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
HVS
3
Priscilla
From the ledge pull over the bulge then climb rightwards up the wall to a rest (one-time stance) on the right. Traverse back...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS
4
Long Climb Top 50
A classic which has crept up in grade owing to the polish!1) 3c, 15m. Climb the slabby buttress on polished holds (a...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
S
5
Leaf Buttress
1) 4a, 15m. As for Long Climb.2) 4c, 25m. Follow the awkward shallow groove then move out right and climb the delicate...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS
6
Leaf Crack
1) 4a, 15m. As for Long Climb.2) 4c, 25m. Traverse out right and follow the long crack up the right-hand side of The Leaf...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
7
Little Crowberry
Climb right of the arete then monkey left to gain its front face. Continue up the left-hand flank apart from a couple of moves...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
S
8
Long Chimney Ridge
Climb the right-trending groove right of the crest of the arete until the ledge of The Pulpit on the right can be reached....
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
9
Long Chimney
14m. Bridge the chimney, staying away from its green and grubby interior.
 Diff
10
The Blacksmith Climb
8m. The wall left of Straight Crack is pleasant if bold. A sensible side runner can be placed en route.
 VS 4c
11
Straight Crack
The obviously-named crack doesn't have many holds.
 
Rounded
S
12
Little Inominate
8m. The narrow face just right. Who said eliminates were a modern invention.
 VS 4c
13
Straight Chimney
The deep groove is better than the approach!
 M
14
Garden Wall
The right-hand groove in the wall. Approaching from Left Twin Chimney improves the whole experience.
 S
15
Left Twin Chimney
The left-hand chimney has some grass, a collection of jammed blocks and a grubby finish - but at least it's a good line.
 Diff
16
Twin Eliminate
16m. Climb the slender pillar and capping overhang. The idea is to avoid either arete though this is (much) easier said than...
 E1 5b
17
Right Twin Chimney
The gradually widening and rather scruffy right-hand chimney is included out of historical interest - 1902!
 HVD
18
Tower Face
A great pitch, long interesting and very photogenic - the walk is worth it just to do this route. From the cave, pull onto the...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Rounded
VS
19
Modern Times
An interesting eliminate. Climb the steep right-hand side of the lower wall to mid-height then move left to climb through the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3
20
Tower Arete
The exciting right-hand side of the arete is followed in its entirety and is more strenuous than you might expect.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
HVS
21
North Climb
Take the big groove over easy ground to a possible stance. From a thread in the chimney, shuffle left to reach and finish up...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
22
North Wall
Climb the right edge of North Climb's groove to the capping overhang and pass this via the steep crack and a beefy move. A...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
Fluttery
HS
23
Cave Arete
Follow the scoop delicately out right to the arete and climb to a ledge (possible belay). Take the hugely-exposed top pitch of...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS
24
Cave Arete Indirect
Climb the left wall of the cave to a good spike, swing round the arete and climb to ledges and a stance (5a). Head up the...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E1
25
Cave Crack
Climb into the top of the cave and pull onto the face (the spinning chock can be jammed with crafty use of a sling) then climb...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
HVS
26
Cave Crack Indirect
Start on the right and slant left to join Cave Crack above its cave. Continue to the ledge (stance and belay), then follow the...
 S
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  • Latest Comments

    For LADDOW

    Route 4
    "Enjoyable route, not for the faint of heart as the only gear is low down." 17/May

    Cave Arete
    "The right hand finish is closer to Mod/Diff than 4a/b." 27/Jun

    Long Chimney Ridge
    "Sorry Iain, more VDiff than Severe, easier than Long Climb. Good protection. Veg..." 11/Apr

    Priscilla Ridge
    "Straightforward HVS" 10/Aug

    Tower Face
    "The start is hard 5a, but it is only one move and well protected. The rest is v..." 27/Jul

    Cave Arete Indirect
    "Rockfax line at the top seems ridiculous. You have to go up above it then drop b..." 14/Jul

    Tower Face
    "Surely a Top 50 route? The best VS on grit after Valkyrie, sustained, exposed, v..." 19/Mar

    Leaf Crack
    "Seemed hard/bold for HS. Very dusty and getting a little over-grown in the lower..." 10/Jul

    Cave Arete
    "Final moves out from the roof are wild at the grade (4b). Definitely NOT one of ..." 08/Aug

    Tower Face
    "Superb route, one of the best I've done for a while." 02/Sep

    Cave Arete Indirect
    "Standard E1 5b and jolly good fun. Both overhangs involve entertaining acrobatic..." 01/Sep

    North Wall
    "The pull up to the lip of the roof to fix gear for turning the lip, may worry th..." 10/Aug

    Priscilla Ridge
    "Take care with loose flake at overhang above first break" 26/Aug

    Long Climb
    "Top route for the grade, would agree with previous comments pitch 1 polished VDi..." 03/Aug top50

    Tower Face
    "If you approach by going up the chimney on the right for a couple of metres and ..." 07/Jul

    Pillar Ridge
    "An excellent climb mixture of good grit crack to start then delightful crack and..." 23/Jun

    North Wall
    "Despite the odd bit of grass this is worth doing. As the early climbers would sa..." 26/May

    Cave Arete
    "A nice climb, although not a patch on the Indirect (E1) or Cave Crack (HVS). The..." 19/May

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