Pilgrim's Progress

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Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill

This fine series of cracks and grooves is an excellent place for honing your jamming skills. Some of the routes are quite technical for their grade but protection is usually plentiful and easy to place A good venue for learning the art - The Niche, Studio and Pilgrim's Progress should do for starters.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Main Corner
10m. The groove direct. Avoiding the cracks of The Flywalk is practically impossible, but who cares?
 S
2
The Flywalk
10m. The battered cracks in the right wall are worth doing to ledges (not bridging to the opposite wall of the groove is...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
3
The Niche
12m. The niched-crack gives good steep climbing on solid jams. Passing the niche is a little awkward but the gear is good.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
S
4
Niche Arete
12m. Climb the delicate arete with stretchy moves. Protection at the level of the niche feels distant and it is serious for the...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
VS
5
Orm and Cheep
12m. The shallow slanting groove in the side-wall leads to the pocketed face (side-runner) and sprint. No deviations allowed.
4 user comments
 
Technical
Fluttery
E1
6
Studio
12m. Climb the good crack then mantelshelf rightwards (hard but safe) or layback (easier but bolder) then follow the cracks...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
HS
7
A.P. Chimney
12m. The wide crack in the groove is absolutely perpendicular and also quite steep. Classic bridging or technical thrutching...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
8
Pod Crack
10m. Climb the fierce thin cracks past the pod to a final groove.
13 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
E1
9
Pitoned Crack
12m. The thin crack is gained from the next route. Once aided and still managing to feel a little artificial.
2 user comments
 
Crimpy
HVS
10
Pilgrim's Progress
12m. The steep crack will test your jamming technique and is very close to VS. The groove above has a tricky exit.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HS
11
Little Pillar
12m. A tough start up twin cracks and an wide awkward finish.
5 user comments
 
Technical
Graunchy
VS
12
Ledgeway
12m. Climb the curving crack to a good ledge then climb the wall on the right passing a slanting crack. The arete to the left...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
13
No Name
12m. Climb the tough groove to the right end of the ledge and the easier continuation directly above.
1 user comment
 
Technical
S
14
Keep Buttress
12m. Climb thin parallel cracks to the protruding square arete and tackle this by the steep groove on the right.
4 user comments
 
Technical
HVS
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

    Combs Climb
    "Avoiding holds in the routes to the left or right is nie-on impossible and would..." 10/Aug

    Slanting Crack
    "Definitely HVD at most." 04/Jun

    Fat Man's Chimney
    "Excellent fun on a day of howling gales & sleet. The most sheltered route on..." 01/Nov

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