Middle Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< North Buttress  |  High Buttress >

Sun from mid-morning
1 min

An attractive buttress towards the middle of the cliff and split by a series of cracks and with a fine jutting right–hand arete. The classic mini-desperate of Portfolio is found here along with some much pleasanter and much easier routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
Taller Overhang
8m. The low roof is a short-lived struggle; a beefy pull gains a rest then more of the same - or scuttle off left.
1 user comment
VS 5a
Small Wall
6m. After the short technical wall is a ledge and easy ground. Quite polished and substantially harder for the short.
2 user comments
 S 4b
The Corner
8m. The corner groove is polished as its lower part is much used as a descent route. Climb it direct.
1 user comment
8m. Still one of the hardest routes on the cliff, rumoured to be a Joe Brown offering. Climb to the bulges and pull fiercely...
10 user comments
1 Stars
HVS 5b
Wall Climb
10m. The parallel cracks and short chimney above would appear to be misnamed though are well worth doing anyway.
4 user comments
1 Stars
Centre Route
10m. Climb the awkward wall past an overlap to a finish up a thin crack. Not well-protected until the upper section.
3 user comments
1 Stars
S 4a
The Slant Start
10m. From the chimney on the right trend left to the upper section of Centre Route using polished holds.
3 user comments
Chockstone Chimney
10m. Tackle the widening crack that never gets wide enough to be really worthy of the title 'chimney' The upper section is...
3 user comments
1 Stars
Mississippi Crack
10m. Climb into the good hanging crack in the face to the right and finish up the short groove above. Quite hard for the grade...
9 user comments
2 Stars
S 4a
The Medicine
10m. Scale the stacked overhangs to the left of the arete to a tricky mantelshelf. If you start to struggle always remember...
2 user comments
1 Stars
HS 4a
Middle Buttress Arete
10m. Start just left of the arete and climb up to and into a groove which leads to a ledge. Move left and follow the...
1 user comment
1 Stars
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  • Latest Comments


    "A nice, but committing sequence. It's pretty much all over by the time you want ..." 30/Sep

    Christmas Arete
    "Really two boulder problems separated by a ledge. Good moves though." 09/Aug

    South Buttress Arete Direct
    "Exactly. What's all this about campusing? Were there girls around or something? ..." 15/Aug

    Chockstone Chimney
    "Polish wasn't too bad (certainly no worese than the other popular routes on the ..." 03/May

    Editor's Note
    "well protected? your too low to reach the runner slot by the jug and nothing bel..." 19/Apr

    South Buttress Arete Direct
    "What's all this about campus moves? Is climbing it like an adult cheating?" 28/Aug

    Route 1.5
    "I'd agree with the first comment. I did it as an onsight solo and found it easy...." 03/Apr

    "As a Western Grit local, this has long been on my list and it didn’t disappoint...." 29/Sep

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