Valkyrie

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
10 mins
Uphill

A huge Easter Island statue of a buttress, perhaps the single most imposing bit of grit in the country, with routes to match. Valkyrie may just be the best VS on grit, the Direct is only marginally inferior and the sustained jamming on Matinee is glorious, especially for the uninitiated who usually get mauled.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Valkyrie Direct
28m. A long and elegant pitch up the steep jamming cracks in the arete. Climb the crack and the bulges to a rest at the base of...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS
2
Matinee
24m. The lower crack is almost always damp and usually smelly. Ignore this fact and jam up it to a (possible) stance on the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
HVS
3
Valkyrie Top 50
A wandering climb of great quality - perhaps the archetypical grit classic and thought by many to be worth HVS.1) 4b,...
54 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS
4
Northern Comfort
14m. From the tip of the Valkyrie flake, climb the wall past some useful flakes to a finish up the left arete. Wild and very...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E6
5
Licence to Run
12m. The right-trending flakes in the wall above the Valkyrie stance are pumpy though good gear is available if you can stop!
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4
6
Licence to Lust
12m. A counter-diagonal across the wall, utilising the same holds and runners in the central section at License to Run.
 
1 Stars
E4
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  • Latest Comments

    For THE ROACHES

    Jelly Roll
    "Had the same problem as the original poster. Followed the line in the guide (I t..." 23/Sep

    Valkyrie
    "What hidden foothold? Damn spoilers in these comments had me gripped, but thinki..." 05/Aug top50

    Jeffcoat's Buttress
    "Any Hard Severe leader who isn't tall and can do the start of this straight off ..." 08/Apr

    Rotunda Buttress
    "It's a lovely line and most of the route is very steady, but the top moves are h..." 06/Apr

    Chalkstorm
    "Many many years ago (20) I led this, it was E3 at the time if I remember correct..." 31/Dec top50

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