Simpkins' Overhang and Wombat

Adjacent Areas
< Chalkstorm  |  Damascus Crack >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
15 mins
Uphill

The far left-hand side of the Upper Tier has some contrasting venues; the popular and battered slab hidden on the far left, and the great jutting flat roofs of Simpkins' Overhang and Wombat. The easier routes here are popular and, although not quite of the quality of the climbs to either side of The Sloth, they are still excellent and the area tends to be slightly quieter.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rooster
12m. Climb straight up the unprotected (and polished) face to a ledge and runners then continue up a mild jamming crack above.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HVD
2
Chicken Run
12m. From blocks below the slab, trend right to a slot then climb straight up (well-polished chips!) to a good ledge. Start on...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HVD
3
Fern Crack Top 50
18m. Excellent. A boulder problem start (hard for the short) gains the crack right of the arete. Follow this (thread) to a...
23 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
S
4
Demon Wall
1) 4b, 10m. Climb into the hanging groove on the right passing a bulge early on, to a stance out right. Scary but less so...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
?? VS
5
Perverted Staircase
12m. Climb the fearsome crack through the left-hand side of the roof by gymnastic manoeuvres to reach easier ground.
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
HVS
6
Simpkins' Overhang
14m. Approach the roof with trepidation then follow the main flake rightwards to the lip and a difficult final move to sensibly...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4
7
Inverted Staircase Top 50
1) 14m. Climb the pocketed wall left then right into the long groove to the right of the big roof and follow this to a leftward...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Diff
8
The Tower of Bizarre Delights
10m. Steep and imposing. Climb directly to the ledge above the first pitch of Inverted Staircase then continue boldly up to the...
 
1 Stars
E3
9
The Sublime
16m. Climb the arete up and right to bulges then pull powerfully leftwards through these and climb the leaning rib above.
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
10
Crenation
16m. Follow The Sublime to the bulges, swing right around the arte and climb the juggy wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5a
11
Heather Slab
16m. The once heathery slab that forms the back of the recess is followed directly and is worryingly difficult to protect,...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S
12
Capitol Climb
20m. Worthwhile. Get into the hanging groove and exit right below the overhang to reach a short crack that leads to ledges....
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HS
13
Wombat
20m. A classic piece of roof climbing, pumpy and bold though only a bit harder than The Sloth if you are strong. Climb the wall...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E2
14
Live Bait
20m. Climb the wall using a small flake, skip right to the block then cross the roof leftwards with hard moves to pass the lip....
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4
15
West's Wallaby
24m. Climb the awkward diagonal crack to the huge block tucked under the roof, then hand-traverse this and continue round the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
16
Walleroo
20m. Start up West's Wallaby then from the right-hand edge of the jammed block climb leftwards on small flakes to difficult...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E2
17
Wallaby Direct
20m. Neat. Follow West's Wallaby to the middle of its traverse then climb steeply to an improving crack and easier ground.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS
18
Late Night Final
20m. The undercut chimney that bounds the buttress on the right (thread) can be a tortuous struggle - how good is your...
2 user comments
 
Graunchy
HS
19
The Valve
16m. Bold climbing up the right side of the arete finishing back left on the crest. Exposed and poorly-protected.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4
20
Beckermet Slab
14m. Mild but bold. Bridge up the gully then hand-traverse out left (very hard for the short) to gain the front face which is...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
HVD
21
Maud's Garden Top 50
1) 4a, 14m. Balance up the slab then follow the crack to a stance below the bulges. A left-hand start is a grade easier.2)...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
HVD
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For THE ROACHES

    Valkyrie
    "What hidden foothold? Damn spoilers in these comments had me gripped, but thinki..." 05/Aug top50

    Jeffcoat's Buttress
    "Any Hard Severe leader who isn't tall and can do the start of this straight off ..." 08/Apr

    Rotunda Buttress
    "It's a lovely line and most of the route is very steady, but the top moves are h..." 06/Apr

    Chalkstorm
    "Many many years ago (20) I led this, it was E3 at the time if I remember correct..." 31/Dec top50

    Pedestal Route
    "Left of shield. Best route ever? Could be." 20/Feb top50

    Sifta's Quid
    "Why oh why would you want to squirm under the boulder. enjoyed the crux though,..." 19/Aug

    Elegy
    "I'd suggest getting someone to brush the top break before going for an onsight. ..." 23/Sep top50

    Valkyrie
    "After years of climbing I finally got to do Valkyrie as there was no queue, thou..." 06/Sep top50

    Raven Rock Gully
    "Climbed right hand wall, possibly off-route, in pouring rain. Amusing in retrosp..." 13/Jun

    Valkyrie
    "hardest way is to lead 1st pitch and 2nd the crux pitch , but alot more enjoyabl..." 24/May top50

    Rhodren
    "Too short by far. Interesting moves all the way. Good runnners." 21/May

    Rooster
    "Polished rock and lack of protection make this one a fun climb." 04/May

    Sign of the Times
    "shouldn't get E2 cause it's only 6m (although I was relieved to top out!), I'd g..." 05/Oct

    Walleroo
    "Not bad but a bit of a one move wonder. Two stars? Nah." 05/Sep

    Kelly's Shelf
    "I found this very hard, not well protected to gain the ramp. This move Felt more..." 15/Aug

    Search for comments