Black and Tans

Adjacent Areas
< Damascus Crack  |  The Sloth >

Trad
No sun
12 mins
Uphill
Restricted Access

Home to Black and Tansregarded as one of the very best Severes anywhere on grit though Black Velvet is almost as good. There is also a host of routes up to E2 that are well worthy of attention. The impressive stature of these climbs makes them especially worthwhile.
Access - Occasional restriction due to besting birds - signs will be posted at the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Jeffcoat's Buttress
A classic route though with an arduous (but avoidable) start. Using the chimney start lowers the route to an amenable HS...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
HS
2
Hanging Around
16m. A direct pitch to the pipe stance tackles the large and strenuous bulges on a right-trending line. Finish much more easily...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
3
Ruby Tuesday
30m. A mini-expedition, devious with some excellent climbing.1) 5b, 12m. Climb to the block overhang and pull over to the...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2
4
Black and Tans Top 50
A classic trip weaving its way up the impressive buttress.1) 4a, 14m. Climb the left-hands side of Hollybush Gully and...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
S
5
Black Velvet Top 50
24m. Another fine climb, less popular than its near neighbour but not really much less worthy. Follow Black and Tans to its...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
S
6
Diamond Wednesday
24m. A bit of an eliminate though with good positions, some interesting moves and low in the grade. Start up Hollybush Crack...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
7
Hollybush Crack
26m. Bridge up the wide and prickly lower section of the gully until it is possible to transfer into the crack above. Continue...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For THE ROACHES

    Valkyrie
    "What hidden foothold? Damn spoilers in these comments had me gripped, but thinki..." 05/Aug top50

    Jeffcoat's Buttress
    "Any Hard Severe leader who isn't tall and can do the start of this straight off ..." 08/Apr

    Rotunda Buttress
    "It's a lovely line and most of the route is very steady, but the top moves are h..." 06/Apr

    Chalkstorm
    "Many many years ago (20) I led this, it was E3 at the time if I remember correct..." 31/Dec top50

    Pedestal Route
    "Left of shield. Best route ever? Could be." 20/Feb top50

    Sifta's Quid
    "Why oh why would you want to squirm under the boulder. enjoyed the crux though,..." 19/Aug

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