The Sloth

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
12 mins
Uphill
Restricted Access

The overhang is the single most recognisable feature of the whole cliff. It looks huge from the car-park and even bigger up close! Of course The Sloth is one of the best know grit routes anywhere, though the roof is home to some much harder offerings. For more normal mortals, the slabs here have some great lower-grade routes.
Access - Occasional restriction due to nesting birds - signs will be posted at the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Technical Slab
24m. Despite the name, not very technical but bold in its central section. Climb straight up the slab (harder for the short and...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
HS
2
Gilted
28m. An odd and wild outing based on the left edge of the roof which is high in the grade and seldom repeated. From Hollybush...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5
3
Painted Rumour Top 50
24m. Probably the biggest roof pitch on grit and truly magnificent. From directly above Technical Slab, place loads of gear at...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6
4
Pedestal Route Top 50
28m. A great outing through some impressive territory. 1) 4a, 12m. Climb the flake-crack up the right-hand side of the...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVD
5
The Sloth Top 50
24m. The crack that splits the enormous roof is a total gripper; though like the school bully (and unlike Whillans!) it isn't...
34 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
HVS
6
Loculus Lie
28m. Another arduous and devious roof pitch that visits some highly hairy situations. From the lip of The Sloth yard leftwards...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
7
New Fi'nial
28m. Another bizarre and outrageous gripper that traverses right from the lip of The Sloth until upward escape is possible....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
8
Central Route
16m. The centre of the poorly-protected (cams in the highest break) slab has delicate and unprotected moves at 10m (harder for...
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
VS
9
Right Route Top 50
24m. A classic up the slanting flake that bounds the right edge of the main slab; mild at the grade. Reach the flake via...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
VD
10
Right Route Right
14m. Follow Right Route to the overhang then pull over this to gain the hanging groove just above and follow this to the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
VS
11
Kelly's Direct
14m. From the shelf (see below) climb the crack on the left to a flake then move up and stretch right to rounded pockets....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E1
12
Kelly's Shelf
16m. The bulging face has a narrow ramp cutting through it from left to right. Climb on to this (an ungainly struggle for most)...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
S
13
Skin and Wishbones
16m. The left-hand side of the huge roof taken by Paralologism.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E8
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