Far Left

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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
10 mins
Uphill

The left-hand side of the cliff is dominated by three tall towers. To the right are steep walls above a green lower tier which is split by a long horizontal roof. There are some worthwhile routes here that are always quieter than the main section of the cliff. Bulwark is a particularly fine E1, bold and exhilarating, and Slowhand is only marginally less magnificent. The steep walls above the lower tier have some worthwhile but neglected climbs in the upper grades but few real gems; bald aretes and bold faces are the name of the game.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Nutted by Reality
8m. The middle of the pale wall on the far left is precarious and technical (= hard) especially in the lower section.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
2
Slipstreams
8m. Twinned shallow cracks lead to a flake on the left.
 HVS
3
Little Pinnacle Climb
8m. The stepped groove at the right edge of the terrace leads past ledges to a finish over the eponymous pinnacle.
 VD
4
November Cracks
12m. Climb the near-parallel cracks up the left-hand side of the first tower to the easier groove above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS
5
Bulwark
12m. Bold and satisfying though sometimes a bit dirty. From the ledge on the right traverse out left to reach the airy arete...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1
6
Slowhand
12m. The right-hand side of the face past a crack and a pocket. The delicate finale is most easily overcome by a long stretch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E1
7
Mindbridge
12m. The right wall of the chimney is fierce and bold with low gear where you need it most but not for the finish on the...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7
8
Master of Reality
12m. A leaning tufa provides one of the finest hard routes around. Spaced gear on the lower wall protects the hard moves to the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6
9
Master of Puppets
12m. The right arete has a scary start to reach the break and a tough upper section on spaced monos and poor slopers.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E5
10
The Notch
12m. The narrow groove between the right-hand towers. Start up the left-hand crack to a block then climb a shallow groove...
 VS
11
Chicken
12m. Climb the finger-crack in the third tower to its end then move right before stepping back left and teetering up the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1
12
Pullet
12m. Climb the wall on the right to the ledge on Chicken and finish up its final scoop. A climb with the potential for many...
 
1 Stars
E1
13
Piston Groove
12m. The arduous groove on the right-hand side of the tower. Bridging is the most elegant way of climbing it - on the blunt...
 
Graunchy
VS
14
The Mandrake
10m. Pull left out of Victory Crack to holds on the lip of the roof then thug left to the arete. Continue to a dirty rounded...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5
15
Mandrill
10m. The wall to the right of The Mandrake has good but difficult-to-place micro-wires just over the lip of the roof, and the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
Rounded
E5
16
Victory
10m. The angular groove which curves over leftwards at the top is an awkward thrash for most of its length. High in the grade.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
17
Green Corner
8m. A luminous groove is one of the few lower-grade routes in the vicinity; pity it is often an unpleasant struggle.
1 user comment
 S
18
Blood Blisters
10m. Gain the thin crack right of the arete with difficulty then slap up the arete to a gruesome rounded exit. It may be worth...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E4
19
Electric Chair
10m. Devious but worthwhile. Climb just left of the arete to reach a narrow ledge then trend way left to a crack and runners...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2
20
Bad Joke
8m. From the ledge of the previous route, climb the wall direct-ish. Good climbing but bald, bold and serious! Gear is pretty...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4
21
Gallows
8m. Swing up the right-hand arete of the square wall, starting on the left and change sides to finish. Harder variations are...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2
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  • Latest Comments

    For HEN CLOUD

    Chicken
    "Absolute classic! Not that bold, but I thought 5b all the way, and so hard for ..." 14/Sep

    Solid Geometry
    "Lovely sequency climbing up the 'petrified vine'. Protection is just about adequ..." 23/Sep

    Delstree
    "I was having a bad day. I got onto the main crack and really struggled to place ..." 06/Sep top50

    Delstree
    "That's strange - I did all 3 in the same day as well and thought that delstree w..." 30/Jul top50

    Problem 1
    "An excellent, scary problem up the right hand vein at V2. I reckon the line jus..." 24/Apr

    The Arete
    "My first ever trad climb :) Its quite exposed so was thrilling for a 1st traditi..." 01/Aug

    Bachelor's Left-hand
    "Good but a bit disjointed. Thought HCE was the better route" 05/Jul top50

    Thompson's Buttress Route 2
    "this is a Good route offering little protection for the first few meters" 22/Apr

    B4, XS
    "Thought it was bottom end E7 French 7a" 05/Apr

    Great Chimney
    "Sustained but with good gear. Brilliant." 09/Aug top50

    Master of Puppets
    "alan,put it in as e5 6b in the new guide.thanks" 28/Jul

    Hen Cloud Eliminate
    "E bloody 0. Come on stop burying your heads in the sand." 27/Feb top50

    The Stone Loach
    "No evil wide crack, no tick! A great little route, Slimline's big brother." 18/Feb

    Ancient
    "The upper crack seemed quite stiff for VD, but then we were night climbing it wi..." 18/Oct

    Rib Chimney
    "Having read the descrioption in the BMC guide ('best chimney in the Peak' or som..." 01/Oct

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