Central Climb

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
10 mins
Uphill

The tallest part of the cliff, home to some great multi-pitch routes and the site of the only benightment on grit, on Central Climb, where John Laycock was rescued from above by his climbing partner and their chauffeur.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Ape
12m. Climb the fissure on the left edge of the lower wall the ape right along the break to finish.
 E1 5b
2
The Monkey in Your Soul
14m. A similar but lower line to a finish on the arete.
 E3 5c
3
Press on Regardless
10m. The smart soaring arete on the right-hand side of the gully (approach via the gully) gives bold moves up the gully face,...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2
4
Roof Climb
The first route up both tiers. Pitch 1 has some good bridging.1) 4b, 20m. A crack leads to a step right into a groove then...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
5
The Long and Short
1) 5b, 15m. Climb the luminous groove in the wall and, at its top, pull out left and climb up to the terrace.2) 5b, 10m....
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Graunchy
E1
6
Anaconda
A devious climb which could do with more attention.1) 6a, 15m. Climb the shallow groove to an overlap and move leftwards....
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
7
Anaconda Breakout
20m. Starting up Anaconda and finishing up Borstal Breakout gives a fine logical pitch, and the easiest way up the wall.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3
8
Borstal Breakout
A better route than Anaconda though it can suffer from being a bit dirty. Pitch 1 is an excellent E4 6a.1) 6a, 20m. A...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4
9
Central Climb Direct
Not much more direct than the original and at the upper end of the grade due to the battle that is the first pitch!1) 5a,...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS
10
B4, XS
24m. The soaring arete is a fearsome challenge; a western End of the Affair perhaps? From the first stance on Central Climb...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
E7
11
Central Climb Top 50
An old classic finding a sneaky way up the crag's tallest face. The route is relatively easy for VS but oddly it is hard work...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Graunchy
VS
12
Encouragement
A fine climb, varied and interesting. The first pitch is sweet though it is the second one that carries the full weight of the...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E1
13
K2
A daunting Himalayan peak - or a worthwhile Hen Cloud outing?1) 4a, 12m. Climb the short steep groove to a stance.2)...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
S
14
The Arete
A rambling classic up the ridge which has a mini-Alpine feel. It is a bit of a one-move-wonder, but well worthwhile despite...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VD
15
Arete Wall
16m. The short but steep crack in the shady north wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
16
Easy Gully
30m. The long moderate gully that runs up the back of the arete.
 M
17
Modern
20m. Climb the long curving flake to a good sit-down ledge. Finish up the steep and pumpy crack in the right arete.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
VS
18
Ancient
16m. The right arete of the face, passing a niche, to the ledge of Modern. Step left to a short steep jamming crack in the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
19
Small Buttress
6m. The short rounded arete at the top of the gully.
1 user comment
 HVS
20
Bitching
8m. The thin crack in the left-hand side of the final buttress.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1
21
The Driven Bow
8m. Harrowing climbing direct up the scary rippled wall above the short crack. The gear is very distant where it really...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7
22
Solid Geometry
8m. The smart jutting arete has some delightful moves to an absorbing top-out. The route is high in both the grade and in the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1
23
Bow Buttress
10m. Follow a diagonal crack out to the arete then climb the battered flake on the adjacent face to a leftwards exit.
 
1 Stars
VD
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  • Latest Comments

    For HEN CLOUD

    Chicken
    "Absolute classic! Not that bold, but I thought 5b all the way, and so hard for ..." 14/Sep

    Solid Geometry
    "Lovely sequency climbing up the 'petrified vine'. Protection is just about adequ..." 23/Sep

    Delstree
    "I was having a bad day. I got onto the main crack and really struggled to place ..." 06/Sep top50

    Delstree
    "That's strange - I did all 3 in the same day as well and thought that delstree w..." 30/Jul top50

    Problem 1
    "An excellent, scary problem up the right hand vein at V2. I reckon the line jus..." 24/Apr

    The Arete
    "My first ever trad climb :) Its quite exposed so was thrilling for a 1st traditi..." 01/Aug

    Bachelor's Left-hand
    "Good but a bit disjointed. Thought HCE was the better route" 05/Jul top50

    Thompson's Buttress Route 2
    "this is a Good route offering little protection for the first few meters" 22/Apr

    B4, XS
    "Thought it was bottom end E7 French 7a" 05/Apr

    Great Chimney
    "Sustained but with good gear. Brilliant." 09/Aug top50

    Master of Puppets
    "alan,put it in as e5 6b in the new guide.thanks" 28/Jul

    Hen Cloud Eliminate
    "E bloody 0. Come on stop burying your heads in the sand." 27/Feb top50

    The Stone Loach
    "No evil wide crack, no tick! A great little route, Slimline's big brother." 18/Feb

    Ancient
    "The upper crack seemed quite stiff for VD, but then we were night climbing it wi..." 18/Oct

    Rib Chimney
    "Having read the descrioption in the BMC guide ('best chimney in the Peak' or som..." 01/Oct

    Central Climb Direct
    "Yep, plenty of improvisation required on pitch one. I've got the scars to prove ..." 08/Aug

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