Freddie's Finale

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
30 mins
Uphill
Windy

The left-hand side of the cliff has a fine selection of jamming cracks and is a good place to get a feel for the crag and the style of climbing. Freddie's Finale is one of the classic hand and fist cracks of the Peak. The bulging buttress to the right of Freddie's Finale has several superb hard routes with steep starts and delicate finishes. Further right are two more of Wimberry's fine wide crack climbs - Hanging Groove and Coffin Crack.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Thermometer Crack
On the far left is a leaning crack which gives good jamming and laybacking. A good one for steamy summer days.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
2
Crack and Slab
From the foot of the chimney, slant left up the slab to enter and climb the groove at its apex. Not very rewarding.
2 user comments
 
Loose
S
3
Short Crack
The bulging chimney and narrower crack above gives technical but well-protected bridging.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
4
Pinball Wizard
Follow the finger-crack then the middle of the wall above (slightly bold) on small finger holds, trending leftwards. Said by...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1
5
Blind Faith
The arete has one hard move and then eases with height.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
6
Eight Metre Corner
25ft. The deepening angular groove is pleasant enough.
 
1 Stars
Diff
7
Poltergeist
The arete left of the chimney requires tricky balance moves to reach the hanging crack above (and its chockstones).
 VS
8
Blocked Chimney
Climb the chimney to its blockage and an escape left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
9
Arete du Coeur
A bold arete is climbed direct and requires a heart-in-mouth approach. There is some gear but you need know how to find it.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E4
10
Ornithologist's Corner
Great (and avoidable) jamming up the crack above the approach path with a strenuous finale around the overhang.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS
11
Surprise Arete
The delicate arete on its right-hand side to the break then move left to finish up the crack. Harder for the short.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
HVS
12
One-way Ticket
The direct finish up the arete is bold.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2
13
Surprise
Climb the flaky crack leftwards then follow the groove to interesting moves past the neb.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
14
The Yellow-bellied Gonk
Climb the bulging arete to a break then pull onto the upper slab with difficulty.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
15
Overhanging Chimney
The leaning and narrowing chimney is steep and awkward as far as the thread, then easier above.
 
1 Stars
VD
16
Freddie's Finale
Fist-jamming at its best (not the contradiction in terms non-gritstoner's might imagine). Large gear is a must. Climb through...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
HVS
17
Double Take
The first of the E-big-numbers. Climb through the first overhang of Freddie's then swing right along the break to gain the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6
18
Wimberry Overhang
Leap through the centre of the overhangs (2 ancient peg runners may be in place) to gain the hanging slab and an easier finish...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6
19
Space Oddity
Starting left of the groove, move up and traverse left on the lip of the overhang to below a thin crack. Climb this (fingery)...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5
20
Space Shuffle
Wild and with a lot of shuffling to keep you on your toes! From the second thread in Hanging Groove tiptoe out left above the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
21
Hanging Groove
Climb steeply and strenuously into the well-named feature, pass the chockstones awkwardly and finish more easily up the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS
22
Hanging Groove Variations
As for the normal route to the ledge then gain the upper groove on the right using a dynamic approach. Follow this to the top...
 
2 Stars
VS
23
Order of the Phoenix
Climb desperately through the stepped overhangs onto the front of the buttress until things ease in the shallow scoop. A runner...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8
24
The Bad Attitude Brothers
16m. Climb Coffin Crack to above the recess then traverse the thin break leftwards to the arete. Climb up and round this using...
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
25
Coffin Crack
Climb the wide fissure past the coffin-shaped recess. Holds on the right allow some rather frantic laybacking to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS
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  • Latest Comments

    For WIMBERRY

    Wimberry Overhang
    "Yesterday saw the probable first repeat since the removal in 2007 of the block &..." 10/Apr

    Northern Ballet
    "The whole route would benefit from a clean - very gritty at the moment making th..." 15/Aug

    Charm
    "1st E3, seems like a popular 1st E3.........soft for the grade. Too soon for me..." 12/Jul

    Thorn in the Side-wall
    "It is now brushed, but the green will return! Still hard with gear in the corner..." 05/Jun

    Appointment With Fear
    "Easy E7 and pretty safe at that - as long as you don't fall off the last bit of ..." 12/May

    Bertie's Bugbear
    "Very dirty at the moment. Jamming in a damp mossy crack and smearing on lichen. ..." 28/Sep

    Short Crack
    "Technical bridging gives way to even more technical jamming come offwidth more l..." 17/Jun

    Route II
    "its 4c always was, no need for 5a" 10/Nov

    Wimberry Overhang
    "I hope R. is recovering without any complications...sounds like it could have be..." 10/Aug

    Wimberry Overhang
    "referring to accident. block pulled when climber fell on 2/8/2007. peg was backe..." 07/Aug

    The Trident
    "Significantly harder than Peapod!" 06/Aug

    Charm
    "An excellent demonstration of the rewards of onsight committment. Rather scary d..." 16/Oct

    Squirmer's Chimney
    "How does anyone even fit into this crack?? Couldn't get in the crack to even sta..." 12/Jun

    The Trident
    "Agree totally with Fiend, being of this planet and species I couldn't even get t..." 04/Feb

    The Trident
    "LOL at PatEase on shorts, me mate tried to 2nd it with shorts and came down ripp..." 09/Jan

    Hanging Groove
    "Very green in the groove, but a fun and entertaining route." 07/Sep

    Pinball Wizard
    "Great little climb, whatever the grade." 02/Sep

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