Rubicon Left

Adjacent Areas
< Lammergeyer Buttress  |  Rubicon Right >

Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The most celebrated buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the splendid sweep of rock known as Rubicon Wall. The left-hand side of this crag has a mix of sport routes and trad routes. Although none are as popular these days as they used to be, Honeymoon Blues, Dragonflight and the hard sport found around Caviar remain top quality challenges. There are also some technical routes in the central section which are usually done above bouldering mats.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Alimoany
The steep crack leads to a big ledge. Follow the bolts above, with some difficulty, to the lower-off.
 
Strong
7b+
2
Honeymoon Blues
A route of two halves, both with great climbing. Weave around on the lower wall below some threads in the bulge, then reach up...
 
1 Stars
E5
3
Salar
The groove bulge and wall give a very technical route. The first ascensionist managed somehow to move direct past the final...
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
4
Slapin
Start up Salar but break right up the bulging wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
5
Slapdasher
Thin climbing up the white wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
6
Lapin
The flake-line looks more attractive now that you can use the lower-off on Welsh Rarebit. May still be a bit loose.
 
Loose
E3
7
Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
Overgrown line right of the flakes of Lapin.
 E3 5c
8
Welsh Rarebit
Right of the flakes of Lapin.
 
1 Stars
6b+
9
Changing Fortunes
A one-move-wonder. Crossing the bulge past the peg is the hard bit. After that, finish rightwards up Dragonflight.
 
Strong
E4
10
Hare
16m. Poor climbing just right of the ivy. Loose and worth ignoring.
 
Loose
E3 5c
11
Chair's Missing
A reachy move past a bulge provides the difficulties. Similar to its left-hand neighbour, but a bit easier.
 
1 Stars
Strong
E4
12
A Tall Story
The third of the trio of reachy problems requires the longest arms.
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5
13
Dragonflight
A super little route which is quite tricky for the short. The climbing is delicate and exposed but never quite as serious as it...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E3
14
Jezebel
A harder version of Dragonflight. Boulder up to a break right of Dragonflight then clip the bolt above. Make hard moves past...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
15
Kingfisher
A direct line with one hideously technical move and requiring a baby-bouncer approach to protect. Clip the bolt on Jezebel and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
16
Jaws
This early Fawcett offering has some superb climbing. Climb up to a good hold by a peg. Stand up above the peg and continue up...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
17
Plectrum Maxilla Direct
Serious and bouldery moves are required to reach a protruding peg on the bulging wall. Continue direct to the top break then...
 
1 Stars
E7
18
Barracuda
The desperate left-hand start to Caviar. Only a short crux section at the bottom, but very hard and fingery. The route has...
 
1 Stars
Technical
8b
19
Caviar
A sport route for boulderers, which has become a popular first 8a+, although it isn't an easy one. Aim for the good hold, then...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
20
Beluga
A right hand/direct version of Caviar is slightly harder than the original. Break right after the first bolt, then climb direct...
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a+
21
Eugenics
Intensely fingery and technical climbing. Still unrepeated since the loss of a crucial hold, and reported to be rather...
 
Technical
8b+
22
Let the Tribe Increase
Very technical and sequency climbing up an old bolt-ladder. Loss of a crucial hold has upped the grade.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
8a
23
Dangerous Tribes
A link up of Dangerous Brothers and Tribes. Climb Dangerous Brothers to the second bolt, then make fingery crux moves up and...
 
1 Stars
8a
24
The Dangerous Brothers
Three bolts and a bolt at the break show the way. There are two methods of doing the crux, one for crimpers and one for those...
 
2 Stars
8a
25
Too Old to be Bold
Once derided as too short and too polished - now that short is a virtue, and everything else is just as polished it doesn't...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
26
Coot
The first of the routes on the central section is poor. The grade may be gentler than the routes to either side, but the hollow...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Loose
E4
27
Piranha
A fine, bold climb which still sees few ascents although it makes a good highball above a couple of mats. Use the drilled...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6
28
Cora
A harder version of Piranha sees even fewer ascents. The hard section is below the first break, so sliding right from here...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
29
White Bait
Similar to its left-hand neighbours, but with the crux situated conveniently low on the wall. Climb on pockets to a peg at the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
30
Flake Out Shake Out
A short bouldery route up the wall between White Bait and Miller's Tale via a flake. At the break, finish which ever way you...
 
Technical
E4
31
A Miller's Tale
Another old test-piece showing its age. The lower section with the good climbing is still in good nick. Boulder out to the big...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
32
Hot Fun Closing
A boulder problem start (Kudos, V7 easy way using layaways on right, V9 hard way going direct) leads to a shattered flake....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
33
A Bigger Tail
Jump to gain small edges which lead up and right, via a pocket, to the break (a V7 problem to here). Continue direct.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
34
Water Baliff
18m. Easy ground to the left of the big patch of ivy, finishing up a flake/corner. Becoming overgrown.
 HVS 4c
35
Freewheeler
18m. The left-hand line between the two patches of ivy. Climb over a small roof and continue up flakes to the top. Neglected.
 
Loose
HVS 4c
36
Professor Kirk
16m. Start just right of some trees. Climb a corner then move up and right to a roof. Traverse left then pull over and climb...
 
Strong
E5 6b
37
Maureen
16m. A direct version of Professor Kirk pulling rightwards over the roof.
 
Loose
E4 6a