Nasal Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
30 mins
Uphill
Windy

The left-hand side of the cliff has a collection of worthwhile easier climbs although the area tends to be green and gritty after wet weather. It is at its best on late summer evenings when the situation can be enjoyed to the full. Some of the rock is a bit crusty and requires careful handling

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Route 2
Head up the left arete to a ledge then continue up the left-hand side of the pinnacle above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HS
2
Route 1
Climb diagonally left out to the arete and on to reach ledges below the pinnacle. Then climb the fingery centre of its face....
2 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
VS
3
Slab and Saddle
Climb the slabby face and blunt rib above. The upper part of the projecting buttress on the right can used for an exposed...
2 user comments
 Diff
4
Stirrup
Climb the slabs straight into the hanging groove then move out right and climb the exposed arete in a fine position.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S
5
Double Overhangs
The front face of the buttress passing two roofs is effectively a pumpy direct start to Stirrup.
1 user comment
 
Strong
HVS
6
Cooper's Crack
The crack splitting the roof eases once past the overhang - worth seeking out for a couple of nice moves.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
S
7
Sea Route
Tackle the face then the thin crack that splits the centre of the slab, crossing the major break of C Climb at half-height to a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
VS
8
C Climb
Start on the right and climb leftwards to finish up the final two moves of Cooper's Crack.
 Diff
9
Green Crack
The curving groove is a compelling line but not a very edifying experience. It could equally have been called Gritty Crack or...
 VD
10
Wrinkled Buttress
Climb the lower buttress right then left to a ledge then the upper face on sloping holds, heading back right again.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Rounded
VD
11
Curving Crack
Climb the slab to reach the deep crack/groove as it bends back right then follow it to the top.
 VD
12
Danegeld
Steep and worthwhile but with a committing feeling. Climb the face into a scoop then take a crack up the bulging wall. Pull...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E1
13
The Tax Collector
The right-hand of the wall leads to, and through, the capping roof which makes you pay for all favours received.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E2
14
Knobbly Wall
The flaky wall to a short crack and awkward finish.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
HS
15
The Director's Route
A long diagonal from the foot of The Direct Route to the top left corner of the face involves some nice moves, but it is dirty...
1 user comment
 
Loose
HVD
16
The Direct Route
Climb the right-hand side of the wall on flakes (some of which are a bit creaky) - care required.
 
Loose
VD
17
The Moocher
Flakes on the right-hand edge of the wall lead to bulges which can be outflanked or climbed direct.
 
Pumpy
Loose
VS
18
Eyebrow
The shady side of the jutting buttress via a short wide crack to a finish on the exposed arete out to the right.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
19
Nasal Buttress
The classic of this part of the cliff with a little bit of everything. Climb the steep arete with the nose being passed on the...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
HS
20
Eight Hours!
Weave a way up the right-hand face of the buttress until it is possible to escape out onto the left-hand arete.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1
21
The Changeling
The widening-crack is followed past a kink until it is possible to change to the other side of the chimney and finish up the...
 HS
22
Crack and Chimney
The widening-rift to an escape over, or under, the chockstone that blocks the chimney.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
23
Palpitation
Wander up the narrow buttress passing to the left of the overhang then step out right to a finish on the arete. Not too hard...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E1
24
Mother's Pride
The upper half of the rib left of the chimney to a finish over the huge block sitting on the top of the cliff.
 E1
25
Capstone Chimney
Climb the rift to the capstone and a subterranean exit.
 
1 Stars
M
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For DOVESTONES EDGE

    Question Mark
    "Great climb that I though actually easier than Answer Crack. Maybe I jam better ..." 30/Sep

    Knobbly Wall
    "Yep I would also say this is Harder than HVD - that last moves are just plain aw..." 06/Oct

    Central Tower
    "A quality route that maybe a little trickier for those who are vertically challe..." 05/Oct

    Danegeld
    "Fiend sums it up nicely. A good route" 10/Aug

    Double Overhangs
    "Quite a ferocious start. Good banter" 28/Sep

    Route 2
    "An attractive line but the rock is very rotten, and the top block is very bold. ..." 04/Jul

    Answer Crack
    "first proper layback climb i have done and proberbly the last because it is ..." 30/Nov top50

    Crack and Chimney
    "Where's this supposed to finish, up the crack on the left, straight up the back,..." 27/Oct

    Crack and Chimney
    "i did it when i was 5 realy easy i am 12 now, climbing at vs 4c now" 12/Jan

    Nasal Buttress
    "Brilliant route, you certainly get your money's worth. Sustained, absorbing with..." 22/Sep

    Knobbly Wall
    "Fully agree with previous comment. Enjoyed this route a lot, but definitely und..." 02/Sep

    Sea Route
    "Legs were wobbling on the crux, especially when your last bit of semi-good gear ..." 31/Jul

    Knobbly Wall
    "Nice climbing but quite a few loose holds and felt harder than HVD." 17/Jul

    Full Stop
    "Excellent route, more than well protected, one move wonder really, still nice cl..." 25/Jan

    Hanging Crack
    "Absolute Dynamite! great route, great jams." 10/Aug

    Maggie
    "I really enjoyed this route although the start is a bit of a let down. The arete..." 08/Aug

    The Catwalk
    "I dont thnk this route merits a 4a tech grade, its very easy all the way but ver..." 08/Aug

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