The Drainpipe

Adjacent Areas
< Eastern Slab  |  True Grit >

Trad
Sun and Shade
25 mins
Up and Down
Windy

The central section of the cliff has some worthwhile climbs up a series of impressive corners with The Drainpipe and Nil Desperandum being aespecially good. The smoother rock in between offers some excellent open aretes and some compelling and bold face climbs that don't see much traffic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Pulpit Ridge
The bold and imposing arete. Climb onto the Pulpit via a traverse from the right then balance up the exciting edge...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS
2
Over the Moors
Climb the bold and bald wall, directly above the starting crack of Pulpit Ridge, trending slightly left (nut in pocket) then...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
3
Black Mountain Collage
Climb the initial crack of Pulpit Ridge to a break and the first and only runner. Climb straight up for 3m or so with...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E7
4
The Drainpipe
A classic line up the steep and often gritty corner. Good climbing but it is best avoided after (and probably during) wet...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
HS
5
Guerrilla Action
From the spout of The Drainpipe head out right to the blunt arete and climb it to a deep horizontal break (gear). From here...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2
6
Unfinished Arete
Devious but interesting. Slant left to the arete and balance up this to the deep break. Wriggle right along the slot to the...
 
1 Stars
VS
7
Welcome to Greenfield, Gateway to Greenfield
Climb the centre of the face to a deep slot. It is normal to have a lie-down here before the pull onto the final wall though...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3
8
Undun Crack
The thin crack on the right-hand side of the wall, and its wider continuation, are inclined to be green and gritty after rain.
 VS
9
Slime Crack
The scruffy corner is included because it's there. Belay on the ledge if required then finish up the chimney on the left.
 Diff
10
Little Kern Knotts
Climb the crack in the left wall of the buttress passing the recess. Finish up the wall on the right of the final groove.
 S
11
Waterloo Climb
Mount the flake then traverse left to the arete of the buttress and balance up this to the ledge. Choose a finish.
 HS
12
The Plonker
From the flake climb straight up the centre of the right wall to access the ledge awkwardly. Choose an exit.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS
13
Muddy Crack
The crack to the ledge and its continuation at the back.
 VD
14
No Time to Pose
Flash up the steep leaning arete and double overhang above - rapidly! Not well-protected where it matters.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
15
Napoleon's Direct
Follow the slanting groove to the overhang and layback through this with difficulty and usually some grunting.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E2
16
Mark I
Climb the slabby angle in the left-hand edge of the bay then either take the wide crack direct, or the groove on the left with...
 
1 Stars
VD
17
Mark II
Climb the crack which delineates the left-hand side of the main bulk of the buttress as it narrows and steepens. The interest...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
18
The Derivatives
Where Mark II begins to feel too pushy, escape right to the arete and then follow the short, exposed and bold slab above.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVD
19
Rollup
... if you fancy your chances! Climb right then left through the bulges and into a recess and exit leftwards from this up a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E1
20
Rizla
Follow Rollup to the niche then shuffle right below the roof to a ledge (and a possible stance). Finish up the wide (Wedgewood)...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
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  • Latest Comments

    For RAVENSTONES

    Wall and Crack Climb
    "Felt very hard for the grade. Dirty, grassy and bold." 28/Jul

    Gray's Wall
    "I have no idea what grade this is as I only got 2 foot off the ground. But it's..." 28/Jul

    Green Wall
    "Tricky start and finish! Bold for the grade." 13/Jun

    The Derivatives
    "The top slab is rathy necky for a VDiff!" 11/Jun

    The Drainpipe
    "Filty, even after 2 weeks of hot sunny weather! As the BMC guide says, "it..." 11/Jun

    Strenuosity
    "I could be wrong but the line shown does not seem to correspond with the line in..." 16/Sep

    Nil Desperandum
    "Beware of the midges" 20/Jun

    True Grit
    "a stunner. one of the best routes i've done on grit. two large Friends are worth..." 08/Dec

    True Grit
    "a real moorland classic not hard in the grade,a solo one very windy evening made..." 04/Oct

    Abracadabra
    "tis nails i agree, but i did manage to do it, i think i spent a day and a half c..." 22/Sep

    Abracadabra
    "apart from con, i've never met anyone who's actually completed this...nails!" 21/Sep

    Over the Moors
    "Black Mountain College a 3 star E7 6b, low in the grade, quite bold. Up that wal..." 29/May

    Over the Moors
    "I think it had three ascent in as many weeks. All of them thinking they were the..." 01/May

    Over the Moors
    "Surely it's worth a star or two?" 06/Dec

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