Western Buttresses

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
25 mins
Up and Down
Windy

Running west from The Trinnacle is a long line of lower rocks, home to almost a hundred routes, many of which are worth doing despite the fact that they see few ascents. Sandbags lurk here! Brief notes of almost a score of the best from the first section are included here.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Nuke the Whale
A bold technical arete, initially on the left, then the right.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
2
K. Corner
The left-facing groove is short and a little awkward.
 VD
3
Private Investigations
The bold arete on its left-hand side. The landing is nasty.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3
4
Raven Rib
The cracked arete gives a pleasant and well-protected pitch with nice balance climbing throughout. Steeper than it looks!
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS
5
Flake Chimney
10m. The grubby gully.
 M
6
The Sting
Climb the flake direct then continue up the short steep face above with the predictable sting-in-the-tail. Originally VS!
1 user comment
 
Technical
E1
7
Nevermore Arete
The juggy yet bold arete left of the wide chimney is good.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS
8
Jam Block Chimney
12m. The straightforward open rift.
 M
9
Magic Wand
The left-hand arete is precarious and unprotected unless you (sensibly!) place side runners in the next climb.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1
10
Abracadabra
A delicate face climbed centrally with hard, safe moves near the top. Good climbing and much harder for the short.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E2
11
Wall and Crack Climb
From a grassy groove, climb rightwards to a ledge, then reach another ledge awkwardly before the final grassy crack.
1 user comment
 S
12
Colombia Lift-off
Climb up and left to Wall and Crack Climb. From good runners, move out right to climb the wall above the overhang.
 VS
13
Impending Crack
The central crack impends crucially at half-height. Easier, cleaner and better than it looks.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HS
14
Toiseach
Climb the cracked wall, just right of the wide central fissure, via an overlap near the start and a mid-height ledge.
 HVS
15
Subtending Wall
12m. The wall leads to a crack in its upper half.
 HS 4b
16
Stairway
10m. The left trending flakes and easy groove.
 Diff
17
Trio
The cracked groove left of the arete has a steep start.
 S
18
Being Boiled
The elegant arete gives a pleasing pitch for cool dudes.
 
1 Stars
E1
19
Yellow Fever
8m. The facing groove.
 VD
20
Spring Box Crack
8m. Climb the awkward open groove.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
21
Spring Fever
8m. The cracks in the right-hand wall of the groove.
 S 4a
22
Under Pressure
10m. The centre of the slab is approached over an overhang.
 
1 Stars
E1 5a
23
Smilosity
10m. The chimney with a boulder across its top.
 Diff
24
Funny Thing
A humourless crack and the bulging face above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
25
The Plin
The groove is approached over a small overhang.
 VD
26
Plinth Chimney
The widening chimney up the left-hand side of The Plinth.
 
1 Stars
VD
27
Altered States
The impressive, poorly-protected front face of The Plinth.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3
28
Safety Plin
The final offering is the narrowing chimney up the right-hand fissure of The Plinth.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
S
29
Plinth Arete
10m. The right arete of the Plinth.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
30
Finger Wall
8m. From the finger of rock trend right then exit to the left.
 VS 4c
31
Cracked Nose
8m. The cracked nose and bulges above.
 VS 4c
32
Writer's Cramp
8m. Pull through the roof to enter the groove and finish up the wall.
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
33
Bebop
10m. Climb the narrow roof and wall left of the chimney.
 HS 4b
34
Black Chimney
10m. The rift to a bridging exit.
 VD
35
Droppings
8m. The zigzag cracks in the wall to the right of the chimney.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
36
Gray's Wall
12m. The wall right of the arete to a finish up the short arete above.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
37
Ernie's Chimnack
12m. The widening crack and v-groove.
 
1 Stars
HVD
38
Y Climb
10m. Why not? The flake to a choice of finishes.
 Diff
39
Wrinkled Wall
10m. The steep wall is best done quickly.
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
40
Thin Crack
8m. The crack on the right.
 VD
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  • Latest Comments

    For RAVENSTONES

    Wall and Crack Climb
    "Felt very hard for the grade. Dirty, grassy and bold." 28/Jul

    Gray's Wall
    "I have no idea what grade this is as I only got 2 foot off the ground. But it's..." 28/Jul

    Green Wall
    "Tricky start and finish! Bold for the grade." 13/Jun

    The Derivatives
    "The top slab is rathy necky for a VDiff!" 11/Jun

    The Drainpipe
    "Filty, even after 2 weeks of hot sunny weather! As the BMC guide says, "it..." 11/Jun

    Strenuosity
    "I could be wrong but the line shown does not seem to correspond with the line in..." 16/Sep

    Nil Desperandum
    "Beware of the midges" 20/Jun

    True Grit
    "a stunner. one of the best routes i've done on grit. two large Friends are worth..." 08/Dec

    True Grit
    "a real moorland classic not hard in the grade,a solo one very windy evening made..." 04/Oct

    Abracadabra
    "tis nails i agree, but i did manage to do it, i think i spent a day and a half c..." 22/Sep

    Abracadabra
    "apart from con, i've never met anyone who's actually completed this...nails!" 21/Sep

    Over the Moors
    "Black Mountain College a 3 star E7 6b, low in the grade, quite bold. Up that wal..." 29/May

    Over the Moors
    "I think it had three ascent in as many weeks. All of them thinking they were the..." 01/May

    Over the Moors
    "Surely it's worth a star or two?" 06/Dec

    Welcome to Greenfield, Gateway to Greenfield
    "i think that the pull onto the top face is the meat of the entire route, and it ..." 06/Dec

    Over the Moors
    "perfect sense to me Jon old chap, me thinks martin k was misunderstanding your c..." 06/Nov

    Over the Moors
    "Ay? I thought it was quite clear. Over The Moors is on the left (and has a nut r..." 06/Nov

    Over the Moors
    "pardon? there are 2 routes being discussed here, Over the Moors is the route on ..." 05/Nov

    Over the Moors
    "how can 2 people find this easy E5, and then Jon Read comes along with crucial r..." 04/Nov

    No Time to Pose
    "anyone done this? i had a look a couple of years ago but couldn't work out wh..." 14/Oct

    Over the Moors
    "A crucial nut runner lurkes in a pocket. Bolder wall/slab to the right again is ..." 24/Sep

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