Main Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
15 mins
Downhill
Windy

The main wall of the cliff is the show-piece of the place with many fine climbs on good rock. It also gets plenty of sun and is only a 15 minute downhill approach so what are you waiting for?

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Guillotine
A good line. The right-facing corner starting from a ledge which is reached from the left. The exit is grotty.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
2
Fallen Heroes
The steep thin hand crack up the left-hand side of the leaning wall is one of the best hereabouts; sustained and pumpy but...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E1
3
Brainchild
Climb the wall direct with a huge undercut move where pebbles used to be, or loop onto Fallen Heroes (E3 5c) then head to the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E4
4
Vivien
Another fine line. Climb the wall to a ledge and the base of the excellent parallel cracks. Up these with interest.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
S
5
Prunin' the Duck
Climb the arete direct with a difficult start over a bulge.
 E2
6
Scratchnose Crack
The hanging groove is awkward to enter and easier above. The name suggests not to get stuck in too deep at the roof.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS
7
Papillon
Climb the slender pillar, reaching its base from Twin Crack Corner and avoiding any escape routes
 E1
8
Twin Crack Corner
Climb Scratchnose to the first ledge then step right and follow the excellent twin-cracked groove throughout. Classic and mild...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
9
False Prospects
Climb the corner past a roof to reach the hanging arete on the right. Continue up this and the diagonal crack above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
10
Fairy Nuff
A real classic, high in the grade and intimidating too. Climb up to the square roof then traverse onto the arete. Follow this...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
VS
11
Leprechauner
The huge groove is a bit of a battle, large gear (the bigger the better) is a good idea. As you might expect, it is often...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
12
Kremlin Wall
The thin crack splitting the fine smooth wall is approached easily and climbed directly with difficulty especially for short,...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E1
13
Layback-a-daisical
Follow a groove rightwards to the roof, move left and climb the bold and strenuous crack to a juggy finish out right. Scary!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
VS
14
Obyoyo
Climb the wall to the roof then gain the hanging crack on the right by some grim jamming. Once established, finish more easily....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
15
The Trouble with Women is..
Climb directly up the left-hand side of the face.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
16
Womanless Wall
A fine open classic and high in the grade. Climb direct (loose block) or from the right to a huge flake, move up to some big...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
VS
17
Stuck
Climb the right side of the wall via a blind crack (poor gear) and a couple of small flakes. Finish up the wall above and...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
18
Unstuck
The pebbly wall is climbed desperately to the twin flakes on Stuck hoping they and you both stay stuck.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E4
19
Diddley Dum Overhang
Tackle the tough finger-crack above the niche.
 
Strong
HVS
20
Deep Chimney
The short rift on the right.
 
Graunchy
VD
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  • Latest Comments

    For STANDING STONES

    Twin Crack Corner
    "Forget 'MVS', how about HS 4b, a far too underused grade?" 21/May

    Fish-meal and Revenge
    "On sighted this yesterday and thought E5. Have no idea where you could stop and..." 12/May

    Fat Old Sun
    "Surprisingly amenable. Good route. Made me think maybe I boulder too much........." 03/Jul

    Right of Pie
    "at E3 5c I think it sensible to use an obvious hold (layaway seem to recall) on ..." 22/Jun

    Ocean Wall
    "Lovely, lovely, lovely. A bit reachy but still- gues what - lovely!" 17/Oct top50

    Fairy Nuff
    "Brilliant stuff, every time you think you've done the crux, the next bit turns o..." 13/Jun

    Fish-meal and Revenge
    "Probably worthy of E5. It would be a close call if you came off before clipping ..." 22/May

    Layback-a-daisical
    "Not sure were HS 4b votes come from - sandbagging? After seconding this and Ocea..." 20/May

    Ocean Wall
    "NEVER 5c. 5b but absolutely mint..." 11/May top50

    Kon-Tiki Korner
    "VS 4b and no pushover at that! Chris" 11/May

    Ocean Wall
    "tried it last night amongs a herd of midges i failed to get up the overhanging a..." 09/Aug top50

    Fallen Heroes
    "Maybe you should just settle for:- “12m. The leaning crack is hereabouts. FA." 03/Jun

    Kon-Tiki Korner
    "May be it was the preceeding damp weather, but this was sustained and slippy, wi..." 15/May

    Piece of Pie
    "Tricky move around the arete - crack above very dirty at the moment - definitely..." 29/Apr

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