Renaissance

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
3 mins
Uphill

The main feature of the quarry is the central jutting overhang that catches your attention on entering the place. Originally bolted by Tony Howard in 1969 as The Walum Olum, A3, it is now home to three desperate routes including the classic Renaissance, arguably the best route in the quarry.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Little Running Water
The frequently water-washed parallel cracks on the far left are approached by a tricky bulge and exited rightwards.
 
1 Stars
VS
2
Big Heap
The steep crack is hardest at the overhangs.
 
1 Stars
HVS
3
The Green Meanies
Gain the square arete from Big Heap. Proves to be strenuous and then delicate.
 E2
4
Heap Big Corner
The angular corner gives a worthwhile route when clean and is much less of the dump than the name suggests.
 
1 Stars
HVS
5
Cochise
Traverse right from the corner to reach the crack in the wall and power up it. The Direct Start is E'sa, a dynamic E3 6a.
 HVS
6
Blazing Saddles
Climb the wall to the start of the diagonal crack then continue in a direct line by bold, sustained and reachy climbing. A...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
7
Little Bighorn
The prominent diagonal crack is a bit of a battle. Approach it via the bold and technical wall of Blazing Saddles then thug...
 
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
8
Tomahawk
The thin once-pegged crack was one of the original routes of the quarry. It is fingery and awkward to protect.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E4
9
Totem Corner
The angular right-facing groove has recently been cleaned up - get it done before it turns back into a greasy pole.
 HVS
10
Hawkwind
The thin crack just right of the groove is gained from its base. At the top step back into the corner to finish. The gymnastic...
 E1
11
Giteche Manitou
Take either start to Hawkwind then move out right to climb the wall and flake trending right to finish.
 E1
12
Cowboys and Indians
Start as for the previous route but continue the traverse all the way out to an exciting finish on the far arete. Thrilling!
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1
13
Play it Safe
Climb to the bulge then continue up curving groove and slab on an array of indifferent pockets. One ancient peg runner.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
14
Piece of Pipe
Climb to the diagonal crack and follow it with difficulty to better holds where the crack widens. Finish steeply. High in the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
15
Pipe-line
Swarm up the evil narrowing slot (giant cams can be a saviour) until the upper section of Piece of Pipe can be gained.
 
1 Stars
Strong
E3
16
Waiting for an Alibi
The hairline crack and bold wall are taxing. One poor peg runner and little else to help you along the way.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
17
Pipe of Peace
Climb across ledgy ground to reach the short-lived crack which was one of the earliest free routes in the quarry.
 
Pumpy
VS
18
The Screaming Abdabs
Start from ledges and balance up the bold blunt arete above a worrying drop - hard! One old peg runner just about protects.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3
19
Turtle
Climb mixed rock and veg into the open groove (ancient bolt) then follow this to a tricky exit round the capping overhang. The...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1
20
Edge Your Bets
The left wall of the great prow with a loop to the right at mid-height to utilise a vital pocket. Micro-cams protect.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6
21
Renaissance
Climb Forked Tongue then from a highish runner balance and teeter out left to the arete and a bold finish up its left-hand...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
22
Give the Dogg a Bone
The technical and fingery right-hand wall of the arete passing stacked (and unclippable) glued pegs. A good climb that had to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
23
Forked Tongue
The thin cracks are approached easily up grass and are tricky to start but soon ease off. Well-protected by small wires.
 
1 Stars
HVS
24
Paleface
Scramble to the crack and groove and jam it to a short section of laybacking and an awkward mantelshelf exit.
 
Pumpy
VS
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  • Latest Comments

    For UPPERWOOD QUARRY

    Turtle
    "In response to Andy Hobson : Needs less bolts! It's a £^@!*(? trad route!" 31/Jul

    Edge Your Bets
    "A sadly neglected classic, with some dire moves. Oh, and I toproped it before I ..." 05/Jun

    Turtle
    "Needs more bolts than it currently has. Would make an excellent F6a." 19/Feb

    Iron Road
    "Less of the blank wall that it looked like, and more of a slab covered in jugs!!..." 19/Feb

    Renaissance
    "To whoever placed the totally unnecessary belay bolt at the top of this route - ..." 11/Feb

    Piece of Pipe
    "Dirty and strenuous. E1 5b." 29/Jun

    How
    "No longer mixed terrain. Someone's done a good job of cleaning up the start. Wel..." 30/Jul

    Turtle
    "come on this is struggling to be worth a star, ice axes helpful at the start" 18/Sep

    Turtle
    "The veg is gaining the upper hand and possibly constitutes the crux. Some good m..." 09/Jun

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