Misty Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Chinese Wall  |  Eureka Buttress >

Trad
Morning sun
50 mins
Uphill
Windy

The rocks overlooking the upper section of Fair Brook have a good collection of climbs in a superb sunny setting. Misty Wall is the classic VS although the routes just to the right are worth a look. The less popular routes are inclined to be gritty; a little regular traffic would help keep them clean.
Approach (see map on page 171) - From the parking below the Snake Inn use the Fair Brook approach. As you near the top of the valley, Misty Walls are above and right. Continuing to the plateau then turning right is far and away the easiest approach, though those after Alpine training can attack the final lung-busting slope direct.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Magic Wall
14m. Climb a groove to the roof, shuffle out right to reach a diagonal crack, which has a wide and difficult exit.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
2
Magic Wall Direct
12m. The centre of the overhang below the flake on the regular route.
 VS 5a
3
Magic Carpet
14m. Climb the crack in the roof and the wall above.
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
4
Cloudy Wall
14m. Climb round the right-hand side of the overhang then follow the slanting crack above.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
5
The Wand
10m. Move round the left-hand side of the flat roof and climb the wall above.
 S 4a
6
Vendenis
10m. Climb round the right-hand side of the roof to a groove.
 VD
7
Pieces of Eight
Climb the left side of the jutting rib steeply to a big ledge (possible belay). Pull over the awkward overhang behind at a...
 S
8
Doubloon
Climb to the roof and pass this with difficulty to reach right-hand side to the large ledge where Pieces of Eight is joined....
 VS
9
Stampede
Climb the left-hand side of the steep wall through a couple of bulges then shuffle right to finish up a short crack.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Rounded
E2
10
Round Up
Take the centre of the wall passing the bulges using rounded holds, and a bit of a stretch, to reach and finish up the blind...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E1
11
Misty Wall
A Kinder classic up the rough and rugged crack just left of the arete and the wider fissures above. Gain the crack steeply from...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
VS
12
Wind Wall
Follow Misty Wall until it is possible to swing onto the north wall and climb the centre of this passing a deep horizontal...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS
13
Zyphyr
Breeze up the thin flake in the side-wall to join Wind Wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
14
Deviation
Climb the front of the separate squat buttress right of the gully. At its top step left to a deeply recessed chimney which has...
1 user comment
 HVD
15
Fixation
Climb the chimney to ledges and a finish up the awkward restricted groove at the back of the bay.
 
1 Stars
Diff
16
Cassandra
Launch up the wall to the left edge of the great roof. Pass this moving left up the wall with difficulty to a deep break and a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E2
17
Trojan
The imposing roof crack is the battle the name suggests. Approach via a huge perched block and an awkward rest then set about...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
E1
18
Meander Arete
A hard groove leads to the ledge atop the prominent block. From here meander out to the well-positioned arete on the left and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
HVS
19
Meander
Follow the groove of Meander Arete to the platform then move right to another ledge and finish up the crack splitting the left...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS
20
Dependence Wall
Climb the centre of the wall then outflank the roof on the left using some creaky flakes before heading back right up easier...
1 user comment
 HS
21
Dependence Arete
Climb out to the arete from the left then follow it on the left-hand side passing a couple of overhangs with difficulty and...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS
22
Jogroans
8m. The left arete to a finish on the right. The Direct Finish is VS4c
 S 4a
23
Jubilation
8m. A curving line up the wall 2m right of the arete.
 S 4a
24
Maragonna
10m. The centre of the wall direct.
 HVS 5b
25
Mob Rule
12m. The right-hand side of the wall directly from a crack to a shallow groove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
26
G.P. Arete
14m. The pleasant right-hand arete of the wall to a finish on the right.
 S 4a
27
Hoedown
10m. The flake and slab left of the huge perched block.
 VD
28
Sweet William
10m. Climb cracks right of the block to the overhang and escape out left.
 
1 Stars
HVD
29
Lamb Chop
12m. Follow Sweet William to the overhang the move right and climb the right-hand of the cracks that split the bulge.
 VS 4c
30
Hosanna
12m. Pull awkwardly onto the slab then climb it right and left before tackling the left-hand crack splitting the roof.
 HVS 5a
31
Pork Chop
12m. The po(r)key right arete of the wall.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
32
Way Out
10m. The diagonal crack and groove on the left.
 S
33
Scrambled Egg
16m. From the toe of the buttress climb to the second ledge then tackle steeper rock (man-sized thread) and 'the egg'.
 HS 4b
34
Perseverance
10m. Climb parallel cracks to a bulge then step right to an awkward corner.
 HS 4b
35
Gollum
12m. The cracks on the right-hand side of the buttress.
 S 4a
36
The Dedicated Follower of Fashion
12m. From the gully monkey along creaking flakes to the exposed arete and bear-hug a way up this.
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
37
Balrog
12m. Climb the steep groove with difficulty and finish up a crack on the left.
 
1 Stars
VS 5a
38
Short Crack
12m. The crack in the right wall of the groove isn't all that short.
 VS 5a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For KINDER NORTH

    Ashop Crack
    "It's HVS 5b in Over the Moors, so presumably they didn't find an easier way afte..." 08/Jun

    Dunisnane
    "Spelt 'Dunsinane' isnt it." 20/Jan

    Ashop Crack
    "I believe it is E2 5b in the new Western Grit (not got it with me) - the Moorlan..." 12/Jul

    Ashop Crack
    "Something must have changed on this route, because the move through the overhang..." 11/Jul

    Jelly Baby Slab
    "Climbed it this year" 11/Jun

    Razor Crack
    "I concur. Surprisingly juggy and more independent of the chimney than it looks. ..." 25/Jul

    Twisted Smile
    "Intimidating start, gradually easing but pretty sustained. If it was on Stange t..." 03/Sep

    Ashop Crack
    "Indeed I did and again after. My old guide had no comments on the grade - so eit..." 13/Aug

    Ashop Climb
    "Much better than it looks" 12/Aug

    Intestate
    "Starting from Big Brother and traversing the break left makes a better start wit..." 12/Aug

    Wind Wall
    "I Dont believe this route exists, unless you traverse right much higher." 11/Jun

    Downbyne
    "The finish is excellent" 19/Mar

    Eureka
    "The description "weave through the bulges" implies going left and righ..." 10/Sep

    Ashop Crack
    "A full on sandbag at VS! The crux needs a camalot 4 for pro or equivalent. The..." 16/Jul

    Eureka
    "Definitely 3 starts for me. The move out from underneath the over hang to the ar..." 03/Jul

    Big Brother
    "I found the reach to obvious hold above the break impossible (5'5" fyi). Is..." 03/Jul

    Ashop Crack
    "E1 (or 2?) 5a might be nearer the mark! CC" 13/Jun

    Eureka
    "2 Stars is stretching it a bit. It's filthy, and the holds feel like they're abo..." 05/Sep

    Candle in the Wind
    "A good route but too close to the gully to warrant three stars. Friend 5 & 6..." 05/Sep

    Jester Cracks
    "Damn pumpy, but brilliant. Definitely HVS." 03/Sep

    Eureka
    "Very hard for the grade espesialy if you don't trust the wobbly jug" 03/Sep

    Brother's Eliminate
    "moves to the notch are never 5a and the gear is too far away to prevent you deck..." 03/Sep

    Razor Crack
    "a great climb!!!" 04/Jul

    Big Brother
    "jonny woodward is hardly a giant so it must be possible for littluns. the guy wh..." 01/Jul

    Nationalist Route
    "A good route with a tricky move to the right to get in to the continuation crack..." 20/Jun

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