Big Brother Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Eureka Buttress  |  Little Brother Buttress >

Trad
Sun and Shade
50 mins
Uphill
Windy

The 'Brothers' are probably the best bits of rock on Kinder North; on the left is Big Brother Buttress - a fine steep wall riven by cracks and home to an excellent set of routes. Almost all the climbs here are well worth doing.
Approach (see map on page 171) - All the main Kinder North approaches are possible and all have their merits (and drawbacks). The Fair Brook approach is long and takes you to the crag top. The Ashop Clough approach is shorter but hard work on the final slope. The Snake Summit approach is the easiest, long and undulating but flagged for the most part.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tin Tin Wall
Start up the chimney then climb the flakes on the right.
 HS
2
Barbara
A worthwhile flaky crack started from the grubby groove.
 
1 Stars
VD
3
Jelly Baby Slab
Wobble-a-way up the usually dirty slab.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
VS
4
Sliding Chimney
Slide up (or down) the chockstoned rift.
 S
5
Legacy
The long rising diagonal gives a fine pitch. Well-protected (cams) and with excellent romping moves in a wonderful setting. It...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
HVS
6
Spacerunner
The left-hand side of the main face is difficult in its lower section with hard climbing on tiny holds. It eases above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E4
7
Intestate
Excellent and reachy. Follow Legacy (or better Big Brother) to the middle of its traverse then cruise up the centre of the wall...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
E1
8
Big Brother
A reachy number that is as height dependant as the name suggests. Climb the steep left-hand edge of the recess and the short...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
E2
9
Kinsman
Start up Big Brother but swing right and climb the difficult blunt arete to the easier upper section of Legacy.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
10
Brother's Eliminate
Climb out of the cave via the slanting crack and follow it right to a niche. Step out left and climb the wall and crack.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1
11
Squatter's Rights/Blue Jade
The wall on the right is climbed desperately to the break. Recover then attack the marginally easier wall above.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E4
12
Little Boy Blue
Climb left of the blunt arete to reach a ledge with difficulty. Move left to the diagonal crack and, once past this, finish up...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E1
13
Dirty Trick
Approach the steep groove via a wall and shelf.
 S
14
Blue Jade
16m. The direct finish is rather more taxing.
 E3 6a
15
The Big Traverse
Excellent but best avoided on the rare days that the crag is busy. Climb the short wall to ledges then traverse left round the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For KINDER NORTH

    Ashop Crack
    "It's HVS 5b in Over the Moors, so presumably they didn't find an easier way afte..." 08/Jun

    Dunisnane
    "Spelt 'Dunsinane' isnt it." 20/Jan

    Ashop Crack
    "I believe it is E2 5b in the new Western Grit (not got it with me) - the Moorlan..." 12/Jul

    Ashop Crack
    "Something must have changed on this route, because the move through the overhang..." 11/Jul

    Jelly Baby Slab
    "Climbed it this year" 11/Jun

    Razor Crack
    "I concur. Surprisingly juggy and more independent of the chimney than it looks. ..." 25/Jul

    Twisted Smile
    "Intimidating start, gradually easing but pretty sustained. If it was on Stange t..." 03/Sep

    Ashop Crack
    "Indeed I did and again after. My old guide had no comments on the grade - so eit..." 13/Aug

    Ashop Climb
    "Much better than it looks" 12/Aug

    Intestate
    "Starting from Big Brother and traversing the break left makes a better start wit..." 12/Aug

    Wind Wall
    "I Dont believe this route exists, unless you traverse right much higher." 11/Jun

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