Dead Chimney Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
50 mins
Uphill
Windy

The first section of rock passed on the Snake Pass approach is the gloomy Dead Chimney Buttress. This sombre buttress is rarely in condition. The hard routes especially will certainly need cleaning before an attempt.
Approach - The shortest approach is from roadside parking at the Snake Summit. The flagged path loops right to Mill Hill, drops down to Ashop Head before climbing steeply to the plateau. Hang a left here and continue horizontally for 1km to the start of the climbing.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Honeymoon Route
The easy grassy groove leads to ledges, finish up the rift. The flake gives a hard start Socialist's Variation, VS 5a.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HVD
2
Kasebrot
12m. The left-hand crack and steep wall above.
 HS 4b
3
Fast Hands
From the ledge balance up the shallow groove in the slab.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E3
4
Socialist's Variation
16m. The crack left of the arete leads awkwardly to ledges and a finish up the fissure behind.
 VS 5a
5
Parliamentary Climb
A classic (caveat - of its genre!) up the tall right-hand flake and the continuation crack above - scrwamtastic.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
6
Dead Chimney
The imposing flake chimney has always been graded VS .... nothing else. If successful with the battle escape right.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
VS
7
Natural Born Chillers
Climb the arete right of Dead Chimney.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E6
8
The Grey Slayer
The crack and wall lead to a harrowing exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For KINDER NORTH

    Ashop Crack
    "It's HVS 5b in Over the Moors, so presumably they didn't find an easier way afte..." 08/Jun

    Dunisnane
    "Spelt 'Dunsinane' isnt it." 20/Jan

    Ashop Crack
    "I believe it is E2 5b in the new Western Grit (not got it with me) - the Moorlan..." 12/Jul

    Ashop Crack
    "Something must have changed on this route, because the move through the overhang..." 11/Jul

    Jelly Baby Slab
    "Climbed it this year" 11/Jun

    Razor Crack
    "I concur. Surprisingly juggy and more independent of the chimney than it looks. ..." 25/Jul

    Twisted Smile
    "Intimidating start, gradually easing but pretty sustained. If it was on Stange t..." 03/Sep

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