Chimney Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

This popular piece of rock on the left side of the quarry is split by the shallow cleft of Wombat Chimney. All the routes here are steep, pumpy and worth doing; the crack climbs are well-protected, though the gear is often hard-won. In contrast the face climbs tend to be bold and harrowing with gear in the breaks and the odd peg.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Paradox
A fine varied pitch up the south-facing side wall, with an interesting start followed by steep finger jamming to a teetering...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2
2
Parasite
The left arete of the front face is technical and bold. Various old bits of metal provide the protection.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
3
Leucocyte Left-hand
Climb past an iron ring to a good ledge out right then step left and enter the steep hanging crack. Finish more easily.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3
4
Leucocyte Right-hand
From a ledge on the Leucocyte Left-hand climb the groove then the continuation crack past an old peg. Easy ground remains.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
VS
5
The Hacker
Climb the wall past twin overlaps then finish up the bold and technical wall above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
6
Central Route
A great route which is not as pumpy as it looks but requires sustained effort right to the end. It follows the continuous...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E1
7
Max
Climb straight up the wall to the overlap (poor rest in a niche) then follow the thin, pumpy crack above. The start is serious;...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E3
8
Wombat Chimney
The narrow hanging fissure is accessed via a steep crack. Take a rest before the chimney then struggle up it to a dirty but...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2
9
The Soot Monkey
Climb the thin wall to a peg then continue right and left boldly to the break. Climb the wall above via a little diversion to...
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6
10
Toxic Bilberrys
Bold, powerful, technical and pushy climbing up the face to the left of Loopy. There is a long run-out start and a then a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E8
11
Steeplejack
46m. A rising girdle of the face following a natural line and offering well protected and strenuous climbing leading to a more...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5c
12
Loopy
An intimidating pitch, strenuous then delicate and always bold. Climb cracks to the hanging blocks, pull into the groove on the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
13
Clean Sweep
26m. A swinging crossing of the 'good' horizontal break that splits the buttress will leave you well pumped'. Three pegs.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
14
Friends
12m. The centre of the wall is gained from the groove on the right. Flakes are used to reach the niche, which is entered...
 HVS 4c
15
The Corner
The main angle between the buttresses gives a worthwhile pitch that would benefit from a bit more traffic.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For WILTON 1

    Wombat Chimney
    "Finish is solid and reasonably clean at the moment." 31/Aug

    Cameo
    "I thought the gear was bomber, tricky bits always separated by rest ledges, and ..." 11/Jun top50

    Cheat
    "pretty standard for E3 5b. how hard you think will depend how many times you ch..." 12/May

    Fingernail
    "Tried this today, struggled to get off the ground the left start is a lot harder..." 21/May

    Chocolate Girl
    "Apparently reachin the crack is the crux, and the 'four pegs' might be better de..." 24/Mar

    Adrenaline
    "Reclimbed the other day by T.Dunn after the loss of the flake hold at the base o..." 10/Aug

    Supercrack
    "superb - would be a total classic if it didnt get so dirty. E3, despite some of ..." 19/Apr

    999
    "Would be worth 3* if it wasnt so dirty..." 13/Apr

    Max
    "probably is E3 (for being sustained) though low in the grade. start is not serio..." 05/Jul

    999
    "The crux is the bottom. The top is easy." 20/Jun

    Flingle Bunt
    "I thought that both the start move (line as described in the CC guide) and the m..." 19/May

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