The Prow

Adjacent Areas
< Chimney Buttress  |  White Slab >

Trad
Morning sun
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The sunniest piece of rock in the quarry has a small collection of excellent routes and is the most popular bit of rock here. The routes tend to be strenuous and bold in places, and the rock is exceptionally clean. Belaying on top of The Prow requires a little care (there are various fixed bits of iron work) as does the exposed escape along its crest - all very Culm Coast-ish!
The outer face of The Prow has a couple of popular lower grade climbs and some bold routes at a higher grade plus the classic Cameo. The rock always looks green but is usually in a climbable state.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Peanuts
Climb across the right wall to ledges around the arete and make a tricky mantel to bigger ledges on the right. Step back left...
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
E1
2
Horrock's Route
Start below a groove and climb right and up to reach a ledge. Take the groove behind to easy ground.Horrock's Route Direct...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
3
Fingernail
Climb a crack to the left of the prominent hook then trend left (possible belay). Step out right and traverse the face to a...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Rounded
VS
4
Orange Peel
From under the hook stride right (tricky to avoid the tempting metal-work) then climb straight up to rejoin Fingernail.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS
5
Flingle Bunt
Layback the pointed flake then climb straight up the wall to Eastern Terrace. Move left along ledges then step back right to...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
6
Sarah
Between Flingle Bunt and Fingernail, follow a fairly grubby line past two ledges to a 15ft space of unprotected rock (between...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
HVS 5a
7
Spider Crack
Layback round the roof then climb the wall to ledges. Take the wide crack in the wall just to the right to finish.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
8
Jubilee Climb
Climb straight up the wall just to the right of Spider Crack. Step left and tackle the thin crack in the upper wall. The route...
2 user comments
 
Technical
E1
9
Eastern Terrace
28m. The long stepped ledge system is the easiest route in the quarry. If you have a hard time on this, its back to the wall.
 M
10
Lazy Friday
The wall left of Cameo has bold climbing but if you can crimp then you might find it OK! It may need a clean and a side-runner...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4
11
Cameo Top 50
The seam left of the arete gives superb steep wall climbing, although the gear (small wires) is a little spaced. One for a...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E1
12
Christeena
Climb the narrow front of the Prow to a ledge. Move up to a good hold on the left arete and use this to swing (low) or teeter...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
VS
13
Christine Arete
Bold and fingery climbing up the left-hand arete of the face. No side-runners at this grade. Wires in the upper left-hand crack...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4
14
Dawn
A steep crack climb which is high in the grade. Jam your way up to a sit-down rest on a sloping ledge. Continue up the draining...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
HVS
15
Innominate
A bouldery start (a side-runner brings it down to E3) leads to a break. Follow the upper break to gain the thin crack left of...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
16
Eliminate
An indirect line but with good climbing. Climb the groove then make a tricky traverse right along the narrow undercut ledges to...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
17
Ann
Two good sections split by a big ledge. Climb the thin once-pegged crack to ledges. Power up the twin cracks in the groove to...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E1
18
Cheat
Steady climbing with a bold feel. Gear in the midway break gives protection that is just about adequate. Climb the reachy lower...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3
19
Rambling Route
Pleasant. Bridge up the chimney to the big sloping ledge then take the jamming crack in the groove above to finish. There are...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VD
20
Bird Chimney
The chimney/groove is normally quitted leftwards where it narrows. The birds have long since flown.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
21
Flywalk
Climb strenuously across small ledges to a jammed finger-nipping block. Finish awkwardly through the small roof. A Direct Start...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
VS
22
Flytrap
The short-lived groove above the start of Flywalk gives a short safe struggle to a shelving rightward exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
23
Veteran Cosmic Rocker
The hanging arete on its right-hand side by some seriously poweful pinch-gripping. The left-hand side is a grade or so easier.
 E4
24
Scimitar
The curving crack leads strenuously into the grubby groove.
 VD
25
Goon
14m. The crack that splits the upper half of the first section of rock is reached directly from below up the delicate face
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For WILTON 1

    Wombat Chimney
    "Finish is solid and reasonably clean at the moment." 31/Aug

    Cameo
    "I thought the gear was bomber, tricky bits always separated by rest ledges, and ..." 11/Jun top50

    Cheat
    "pretty standard for E3 5b. how hard you think will depend how many times you ch..." 12/May

    Fingernail
    "Tried this today, struggled to get off the ground the left start is a lot harder..." 21/May

    Chocolate Girl
    "Apparently reachin the crack is the crux, and the 'four pegs' might be better de..." 24/Mar

    Adrenaline
    "Reclimbed the other day by T.Dunn after the loss of the flake hold at the base o..." 10/Aug

    Supercrack
    "superb - would be a total classic if it didnt get so dirty. E3, despite some of ..." 19/Apr

    999
    "Would be worth 3* if it wasnt so dirty..." 13/Apr

    Max
    "probably is E3 (for being sustained) though low in the grade. start is not serio..." 05/Jul

    999
    "The crux is the bottom. The top is easy." 20/Jun

    Flingle Bunt
    "I thought that both the start move (line as described in the CC guide) and the m..." 19/May

    Eliminate
    "Really rated this, thought the traverse looked a bit of a cop out from the groun..." 02/Mar

    Sobeit
    "This is a fine companion to Supercrack tick both for a crack fantastic evening!?..." 14/Aug

    Lazy Friday
    "the description here is slightly wrong though. You don't really climb the wall t..." 05/Jun

    Paradox
    "Less-intimidating to climb than to look at! and you don't actually have to jam ..." 23/Apr

    Sobeit
    "A quality route with some nice jamming in the upper crack. Just run rightwards a..." 04/Mar

    White Slabs Bunt
    "A substantial, impressive and rewarding outing. Some good and very committing mo..." 20/Sep

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