Wilton Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
3 mins
Uphill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The smooth face on the right-hand side of the quarry, and behind the firing range, is the showpiece of the place offering superb fingery routes on impeccable rock. Most of the routes are poorly protected so best arrive with your bold head on, and treat any fixed gear with respect - it has probably been there for years!
Access - Shooting may take place here on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays so please avoid these days EVEN IF THERE IS NO SIGN OF ANY SHOOTERS.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Deep Groove
The groove to a ledge and the continuation from here.
 
Banned
Diff
2
Meandering Molly
From Deep Groove access the arete on the right and follow it to ledges. Finish up the short wall behind.
 
Banned
VD
3
Cross Tie
Climb the arete until Meandering Molly rolls up then step out left to the centre of the face and climb this.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Banned
S
4
Flake Crack
The flake-crack right of the grotty corner.
 
1 Stars
Banned
S
5
Big Dorris
12m. Towards the centre of the wall is a thin hanging crack, gain this from the left and climb it to a good rest then an...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
6
Falling Crack
Often well-named! The fine fissure cleaving the centre of the face has good gear but is pumpy enough. Gaining the mid-height...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Banned
Pumpy
E2
7
Wilton Wall
The classic of the quarry. From Falling Crack, swing right to the thin seam in the smooth face and climb this with difficulty...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Banned
Pumpy
Crimpy
E3
8
Pigs on the Wing
Great climbing, crimpy, technical and bold. Climb leftwards then direct to jugs and runners. Step right and follow a thin seam...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Banned
Crimpy
E5
9
Pigs Direct
Steep and intense. Climb PotW to the jugs (gear) then head up the wall above by bold, fingery and sustained climbing.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Banned
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
10
The Swine
Boulder rightwards up the wall using a pig of a slippy side-pull to good holds. Continue up in the same line past a peg.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Banned
Crimpy
E3
11
Iron Orchid
The square-cut arete of the wall is technical and airy. Climb the arete to a peg, swing right to a second peg below a shallow...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Banned
Fluttery
E4
12
Saturday Crack
The butch groove/jamming-crack in the side wall is a change from all the fingery chicanery on the front face.
1 user comment
 
Banned
Pumpy
HVS
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  • Latest Comments

    For WILTON 2

    Wilton Wall
    "Bench mark E2 5c, very good climbing though." 14/Jun

    The Bod
    "Nice little climb and a little cleaner having seen a few ascents this year. Anot..." 25/May

    The Bee
    "my first ever E1 lead, scary but that was a long time ago" 20/May

    Falling Crack
    "Highly amusing, with no hard moves." 20/Jun

    Cement Mix
    "Pretty good route actually! Pumpy and steep with a classic Wilton top-out involv..." 23/May

    Shukokia
    "Some care required with placing gear at the top! Owch!" 04/May

    Wilton Wall
    "What a fantastic route! Beautiful climbing. Should be better known, but I'm qu..." 23/Apr

    Wilton Wall
    "Splendid! Considerably more amenable and less draining than it looks, with some ..." 20/Sep

    Throsher
    "Top route, and steady at the grade" 06/Aug

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