Orange Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
3 mins
Uphill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The left-hand bay of Wilton 3 contains a popular orange tinged slab split by a series of diagonal cracks. Although few of the climbs are outstanding, it is a good place to up the tick-tally for the day. The cracked slab to the right also has a set of popular lower-grade climbs.
Approach - Either from the lower roadside parking spots or from Wilton 2 via a path to the right of Wilton Wall.
Access - Shooting may take place here on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays so please avoid these days.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Twin Cracks
The twinned cracks just right of the descent gully.
 
Banned
Diff
2
Sneck
From a ledge, amble up the rib finishing rightwards.
 
Banned
S
3
Zee
6m. The pod shaped crack is not the best route hereabouts!
 
Loose
S 4a
4
Great Chimney
The not very great chimney to a leftwards exit.
2 user comments
 
Banned
Graunchy
M
5
Al's Idea
The technical left arete of the wall needs a spotter and a touch of wizadry. Misplaced in the earlier edition.
6 user comments
 
Technical
Banned
E1
6
Orange Wall
Climb the centre of the wall rightwards on small flatties; hard for the grade. Other variations exist.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Banned
Crimpy
VS
7
Orange Crack
The awkward right-leaning crack soon eases.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Banned
HS
8
Orange Groove
The slanting (and slightly orange) groove is a common introduction to the cliff. It has one tricky jamming move.
 
1 Stars
Banned
VD
9
Monolith Crack
The tough crack right of the tilted block of the Monolith.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Banned
Pumpy
VS
10
Cedric
The right-trending staircase is a popular outing and is tricky to climb with any kind of real style - knees useful!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Banned
S
11
Orange Squash
The wall via an undercut, a detour out left and the slanting crack on the right.
 
Technical
Banned
Fluttery
E3
12
Orange Corner
The main angle of the bay to an exit on rounded holds. A right-hand start is a similar grade.
3 user comments
 
Banned
Rounded
HVD
13
Oak Leaf Wall
A direct line up the ledgy wall just right of the angle.
 
Banned
VS
14
Tea Leaf
From the tip of the earth cone climb the crack and wall into a short finishing groove.
 
Banned
VS
15
Oak Leaf Crack
The first continuous crack right of the angle is pleasant though it gets a bit grubby towards the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Banned
VD
16
Forked Cracks
Climb the right-hand crack of an inverted Y to the junction and continue direct more easily. One of the best routes hereabouts...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Banned
Crimpy
VS
17
Parallel Cracks
The eponymous feature is reached via the rusty hook (runner NOT handhold). Popular and worthwhile.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Banned
S
18
The Groove
The left-slanting groove above the big rusty hook is awkward to enter and easier above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Banned
VD
19
No Idea
The arete of the wall.
 
Banned
VS
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For WILTON 3

    30 Foot Wall
    "Dubious tiny cam protects crux - neat climbing on incut holds." 31/May

    Kay
    "Finally put my spade were my gob is and cleaned this up early 2010. A very good ..." 03/May

    The Grader
    "a brilliant route for the wilton quarries! tough but protectable and very involv..." 25/Apr

    Slipshod
    "I'd go for three stars. Got to be one of the best routes in the quarry - great d..." 04/Jun

    Forked Cracks
    "Bit stiff to start but its all there if you look. Pleasant route although very m..." 21/May

    Shivers Arete
    "Not that I've done many to compare but this felt very soft for E1 with the peg a..." 14/Jul top50

    Forked Cracks
    "More like 5a at the start" 28/Jul

    Al's Idea
    "A quick search on ukclimbing suggests that the descent is described in the wrong..." 31/May

    Al's Idea
    "the thought did cross my mind at the time,we did the arete to the left next to t..." 31/May

    Al's Idea
    "hi there guys, its a bit soft touch i know but are you sure you climbed the corr..." 30/May

    Al's Idea
    "with you all the way on that one george, who ever graded it must have been havin..." 29/May

    Thunder
    "Has potential to be a classic if more people would climb it." 29/May

    Al's Idea
    "E1 5c? You have to be joking - and I'm a 'VS on a good day' punter. HS 4b more..." 17/May

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