The Golden Tower

Adjacent Areas
< Terror Cotta  |  Coal Measures Crag >

Trad
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The finest of Anglezarke; the best routes in the quarry.
Approach (see map on page 299) - From the base of the approach scramble, paths lead across to the tower.
Abseiling - Please try an avoid abseiling off the Golden Tower since it is causing severe cliff-top erosion.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Klondike
Fearsome and fingery but sadly often dirty. Layback the once-pegged crack through the bulge.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3
2
King of Kings
Sustained and desperate and worth 7c+! Gain the hairline crack above the right-facing flake and follow it to the midway break....
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
3
Please Lock Me Away
Start as for King of Kings but head right up the undercut flake by a tough move. The sustained flake/crack above this leads to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
4
Septic Think Tank
The upper wall to the right of Please Lock Me Away is bold and hard, keeping just left of the arete throughout. A couple of peg...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5
5
The Italian Job
A direct start to Septic T.T. may even improve the original. It is fingery and committing. Climb the arete on its left-hand...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E6
6
The Golden Tower Top 50
Often regarded as THE Lancashire classic. Start up the crack in the left side of the buttress (awkward 5a) then tackle the fine...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2
7
Gates of Perception
Take the first section of The Golden Tower then attack the hairline crack just right of the arete. Excellent sustained...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5
8
Fool's Gold
The wide hanging slot in the right side of the tower is a sod to enter and leads awkwardly to a breather on the ledge. The...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
Graunchy
E2
9
Samarkand
High in the grade and a classic tussle. The deep groove and wide crack give a satisfying struggle with large gear helpful.
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS
10
Glister Wall
The centre of the less-impressive wall to the right of The Golden Tower is popular. It sports good holds and runners.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S
11
The Thumb
10m. Climb rightwards to the stubby projecting block of the Finger then step left and to climb the easier crack.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
12
The Finger
Climb to the Finger from under its left-hand side, mantel onto the projection then finish up the grim crack behind.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
13
Finger Chimney
Approach the Finger via the awkward chimney under its right edge. From a standing position the Finger stride right to a ledge...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
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  • Latest Comments

    For ANGLEZARKE

    First Finale
    "Not such a soft touch E1 now as the peg has gone and there is a big loose hold a..." 02/Jul

    Many Happy Returns
    "Nowhere near E1 and only just about HVS." 14/Oct

    Many Happy Returns
    "My intrepid leader pulled several very large chunks of the mid-height flake off ..." 11/Aug

    Birthday Crack
    "Worthwhile now that it's clean." 29/Mar

    The Golden Tower
    "Well in my opinion it certainly ain't "super easy for E2"! It's awkwar..." 27/Sep top50

    Klondike
    "Cleaned up early 2010. So where's my fiver, then?" 03/May

    First Finale
    "Lots of incut holds - almost like a climbing wall! A softer option than trying ..." 05/May

    Fool's Gold
    "Turned up at Anglezarke for the first time ever on April 1st 2009, and guess who..." 14/Apr

    Cotton Terror
    "Tempting and tantalising from below... the crux sequence gradually turns sour as..." 09/Jun

    Tangerine Trip
    "Pumpy it certainly is... keep going because there is a good rest after where you..." 21/Oct

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