California Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Californian Arete Area  |  None >

Trad
Morning sun
0 mins
Up and Down

California Wall is one of the main trad areas on slate, with routes like Central Sadness and Waves of Inspiration among the best E5s in the quarries. There is no easy ride here - expect thin climbing on run-out slabs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Wooley (or Won't He) Jumper
Start from the scree terrace to the left of Unpaid Bills.1) 4c, 10m. Climb the loose groove system until you can move out...
 E3
2
Unpaid Bills
The amazing green pillar in two pitches. 1) 5c, 17m. Feels like trad E3. 2) 6b, 22m. Feels like bold 7b.
 
2 Stars
Loose
E5
3
Primal Ice Cream
The corner is ridiculously run out in places, but never really desperate. Any hard moves are near gear, although there is a...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E3
4
Snakes and Ladders Approach
Make a hard move to the chain and pull up this. For the full adventure see p.§§§.
 HVS
5
Espirit De Corpse
The finger-crack is amazing and sustained, though getting there from the tunnel is somewhat alarming due to some hollow flakes...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
E4
6
Simply Peach
The wall right of the tunnel is sustained. Start on the ledge just right of the tunnel and follow a thin crack to a bolt. Up...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
7
Sad Old Red
Climb to a bolt before moving up past a flake to another bolt (shared with Simply Peach). Move right by a spike into the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4
8
The Madcap Laughs
The loose and hideous groove is best avoided.
 
Loose
E3
9
Spider Pants
As girdles go this is something of a classic. The first pitch is worthy it in its own right. Start below the tapering groove...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6
10
Central Sadness
Possibly the best route of its grade in the quarries. Start below a thin crack to the right of a tapering groove. Often...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
11
Dwarf Shortage
A sustained pitch. Start just to the right of crack of Central Sadness and climb past two bolts - both are hard to clip and the...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E5
12
Sombre Music
Another cracking pitch. From the left-hand end of the ledge that Waves of Inspiration starts from, climb the thin crack past a...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E6
13
The Big Sur
Another classic, though being tall is helpful (if not essential) for the crux. Start as for Waves of Inspiration and at 6m...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E6
14
Waves of Inspiration
A long pitch that keeps coming at you to the final move. Start at a bolt belay. Move up and left to gain a crack/break. Follow...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5
15
Stairway to Silence
A desperate hard route on the right-hand edge os the slab. Start at a fixed belay on a ledge. Skyhooks are required for...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E7
16
Fruit of the Gloom
To the right of California Wall is a loose disgusting looking wall. If you go high enough up the base of it you will see an...
 
2 Stars
Loose
XS 5b