Film Set Quarry

Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
0 mins
Up and Down
Abseil
Sheltered

This quarry is so named as it was a major location for a cult film 'The Keep'. It has a few good routes - the Gender Bender slab is the main point of interest and the isolated slab of Near Dark (After Dark). It is extremely sheltered and the climbing gets plenty of sun but the dense vegetation means that it is slow to dry.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Old Fogies Never Die
From the Col of Conquest, climb the dolerite rib to exit the quarry. On paper this is the easiest way out, but it is far better...
 
Loose
VS
2
Arrampicata Speiligone
From the Col of Conquest, ascend the small right-hand tower. Abseil from a bolt lower-off, which may be buried under vegetation...
 
Loose
E1
3
Arse Over Tit
This route reaches the summit of the other small tower in the base of the quarry. The arete facing Arrampicata Speiligone is...
 
Loose
VS
4
The Second Coming
Similar to Comes the Dervish, but with an evil crux at the top. Start up the left-hand crack (better gear then Monsieur...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
5
Monsieur Avantski
The central crack is sustained and insecure with spaced gear - try not to pass anything by.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
6
Gender Bender
Technical body-tearing bridging will suit yoga enthusiasts. Pass a testing mantelshelf and continue more easily above to top...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3
7
Marital Aids
The girdle. Climb Gender Bender to the mantelshelf, then follow the crack-line out left across the slab passing Monsieur...
 
Technical
Pumpy
E5
8
The Trash Heap Has Spoken
Poor climbing on the right of the slab.1) 5b, 10m. Climb the short groove and traverse 10m right into a large...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E1
9
The Trash Heap Speaks Again
The stepped wall and easy-angled groove.
 
Loose
VS
10
Mental Block
On the opposite side of the quarry is a flake that is fixed to the wall with industrial bolts. This route climbs the arete left...
 
Loose
VS
11
Layed Back Boys
The bolted-on flake. Gain the flake and layback up the right side before either your arms or the rock explode.
 
Pumpy
E2