Pandy Quarry (Pen y Fron) Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The Main Wall routes are mostly just off vertical with rests between moves and the occasional steeper section but a couple (notably Manhattan Project and Discovery) are a bit more pumpy. A prominent feature of the Main Wall is a line of overlaps above a band of coal and shale that emerges by The Urchin and rises diagonally rightwards. The coal/shale is soft and disintegrating but is generally passed without undue difficulty. Typically, the shale has been cut back to reveal large, sometimes fragile, holds on the lower edge of the break and it is not normally far to decent holds above. It is best not to touch the shale itself as it can cascade dirt on to the holds below.
The Dark Side is short but a little steeper and even the easier routes have short, steep juggy sections.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Brexit Stage Left
Start up an easy groove to the left of both Yellow Peril and the first bolt (which can be reached). Continue to steeper ground...
 5b
2
Yellow Peril
Start on the left side of an earth.grass cone 4 metres left of The Urchin. Gain a good hold above the first ledge, then follow...
 5c
3
The Urchin
Quite good climbing up the recessed wall in the upper section. Start below a short crack just left of where the shale band runs...
 6a
4
Professor Plumb
The left flank of the rib to the right of The Urchin. Start 1m right of The Urchin. Climb a flake and rib to the right edge of...
 6a
5
With the Crowbar
A right hand variation to Professor Plumb up the crest of the rib. Follow Professor Plumb past its first two bolts to the top...
 6a+
6
In the Pandy
Start about 2m right of With the Crowbar. Gain a ledge, bridge the shallow scoop above and continue directly (Keep left of the...
 6b
7
Pale and Interesting
Engaging and direct with good climbing. Start below a pale patch under an overlap. Climb through the pale patch and surmount...
 6b+
8
The Needle
Start from the top of the grass cone just right of Pale and Interesting where the shale band has been cleared back to reveal a...
 6b
9
Leete Entertainment
An interesting climb up the groove and wall between The Needle and Honorary Horseshoe. Start directly below the groove. Gain...
 6a+
10
Honorary Horseshoe
Start below a rib with prominent overlaps at the top of the crag. Pass the shale band carefully moving slightly to the left...
 6b
11
Manhattan Project
The pillar and wall between Honorary Horseshoe and Colonel Mustard. Start just right of Honorary Horseshoe. From a good hold in...
 6c
12
Colonel Mustard
Good, complex and interesting. Start up a narrow, brown, right-facing groove and continue fairly directly up grooves and...
 
1 Stars
6b+
13
The Roche Limit
The steep grooved wall just round the nose left of Alyn Wall.
 
1 Stars
6a+
14
Alyn Wall
An exciting route up the left trending seam. There are two alternatives from the sixth bolt: climb the left rib to a horizontal...
 
1 Stars
6b
15
Anghofiedig
Slim grooves between Alyn Wall and Duelling Banjos lead to the shale band. Take the right side of the short rib above then...
 
1 Stars
6b
16
Duelling Banjos
Start below a short left-facing corner at the top of the crag. Weave an intricate way up to it.
 
1 Stars
6a+
17
Hayabusa
The wall, overlap, groove and upper rib between Duelling Banjos and Mustard Gas.
 6a+
18
Mustard Gas
Start below the most prominent part of the overlap above the shale band. Weave up to the overlap, pull through and continue to...
 6b+
19
Marie Celeste
Start below the left end of the large grass ledge at 6m. Climb a shallow groove and pass left of the grass via the left wall of...
 6b+
20
Discovery
A good route up a slight rib left of the upper wall of Secret Santa. Steep and more pumpy than most here. Follow Secret Santa...
 
1 Stars
6c
21
Secret Santa
Good positions. Start below a bolt under the left end of the large grass ledge. Climb the lower wall past the bolt or use the...
 
1 Stars
6a+
22
Right Said Fred
Start right of Secret Santa below a bolt in a slight rib in the lower wall. Climb the wall to the grass ledge and move up...
 6b
23
Seven Nation Army
Quite interesting. The first white stripe right of the orange drainage streak. Gain the groove and climb it to good holds below...
 6b
24
Dead Leaves and the Dirty Ground
Climb the wall just right of Seven Nation Army with some difficulty to a ledge below a borehole/groove. Climb the groove and...
 6b
25
Over and Out
The hairline crack and pod right of Dead Leaves. Climb the crack, pass a block to its left, continue up the pod or its left...
 6a
26
Silver Shadow
Good technical climbing up the smooth silvery grey pillar/wall right of Over and Out. Climb the centre of the pillar/wall...
 6b+
27
Darth Maul
Bouldery moves gain the centre of the initial overlap directly. If no clipstick, the right arete may be used to clip the first...
 6c+
28
The Crawling Eye
A vague groove at the right end of the decent rock leads to a steep finish.
 6a+