South Face

Adjacent Areas
< Masso Goldrake  |  None >

Sport
Lots of sun!
2 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The extensive wall that is the showpiece of the crag - 28 well bolted routes on great rock and with a two minute approach. You can probably guess the downside - it does get extremely busy at times - summer weekends are best avoided. The wall faces south, dries quickly and is a great bet in the colder months of the year. Summers are hot.
Approach - From the parking (€1 an hour - or just down the road for free) walk past the tap and toilet block and up a short path to the South Face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
La Caverna
The rift on the left - trad gear needed.
 
Fluttery
Graunchy
6b
2
144 Battiti
Break right from the previous route - said to be E7!
 
Fluttery
6c
3
Via Degli Arbusti
The easiest way to the top of the block reached over the top of Masso Goldrake.
 4a
4
Muro dei Rigidones
A diagonal extension from the ledge.
 6b+
5
Via Delle Cipolline
The groove to a high crux.
 
1 Stars
6a
6
Quai Chen
Features a tricky bulge.
 
2 Stars
Strong
6b
7
Tom Tom
A nice pitch.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
8
Via del Roby
This one has a thin technical crux.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
9
Miotti-Mottarella
Crimpy climbing leads to a technical final.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
10
1997, Fuga da San Martino
Good footwork helps on the crux.
 
3 Stars
6b+
11
Uscita di Sinistra
A short extension to the top of the block.
 6a
12
Via Del Bosca
A great pitch, a fingery lower section leads to friction climbing.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6b
13
Simon Templar
Another lovely sustained climb. Needs a 70m rope to do the top (5a) pitch.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
14
Via del Soccorso P1
Start at the foot of the long diagonal band and climb direct.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5b
15
Via del Soccorso
The 2nd pitch is worth doing too.
 
2 Stars
6a
16
Fantagenitori
A good pitch, crimpy in a couple of places.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a
17
Via Delle due Gobbe
Good climbing throughout. The slanting groove is the crux. There is an extension at 6b+.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
18
King Kong
The low bulge is the crux. The top pitch is 5a.
 
2 Stars
Strong
6a
19
Via del Cavolo
A wall leads to flakes. The top pitch is 5a.
 
2 Stars
5c
20
Via Fiorelli
1) S 4a, 2) 4a. There is no gear in the first pitch.
 
2 Stars
S
21
La Aspes
An open groove to steeper rock where the crystal crux lurks.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
5c
22
Via Delle Strutture
Nice sustained pitch up the rib - old style bolts.
 
2 Stars
5b
23
Senza Nome
A pleasant pitch up the rib/scoops - nice.
 
2 Stars
5a
24
Fioreli Sport
Two pitches 6a, 5a. The start is technical and fingery - the 5a second pitch is often damp.
 
2 Stars
6a
25
Traslazioni Parallele
A great pitch on lovely rock to a delicate crux high up.
 
3 Stars
Technical
5b
26
Cera l'H
Start up flake cracks in front of the mini-chapel, nice friction climbing to a high crux.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
5b
27
Olza Pigolza
Break out right from the previous climb.
 
2 Stars
5c
28
Cuciolo Alfredo
The right-hand line on the facer also starts up Cera l'H before heading diagonally rightwards - delicate.
 
2 Stars
6a