Wilderness Rocks

Adjacent Areas
< Rob's Rocks  |  None >

Trad
Sun and Shade
30 mins
Up and Down
Windy

Opposite Rob's Rocks is Wilderness Rocks which is north-facing and often out of condition. When clean and dry there are a number of reasonable routes including some hard stuff (see ROCKFAX route database). To the east (left) of Wilderness Rocks is a long gully that runs all the way from the Chew Brook in the bottom, to the crest of the moor.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Suspicion Arete
8m. Clean-cut left-hand arete of the face on small holds gives a pleasant and clean pitch.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4b
2
'Aard Vark
10m. The next arete has technical start a thrilling upper section. You won't spend much time looking for the gear!
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
3
Wilderness Gully East
An excellent scramble (really quite easy for a Mod). It provides a good winter route under the right conditions though care is...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
M
4
Wildebeest
12m. The right arete of the tiered-buttress gives a great pitch with difficult moves to pass the central roof. Finish slightly...
 
2 Stars
E3 6a
5
Mac's Chimney
10m. The deeply recess rift is a grubby struggle - even when dry - and it usually isn't!.
 VD
6
Huggis's Route
12m. Climb the juggy rib right of the chimney to a ledge atop a huge block, then continue up the tricky slab to easier ground.
 S 4a
7
Flake Groove Traverse
18m. The best lower grade route on the cliff. Climb the awkward corner to the big overhang then traverse daintily leftwards to...
 
2 Stars
S 4a
8
Flake Groove
12m. Start as for the previous climb but side-step the roof rightwards and finish up the groove above.
 
1 Stars
VD
9
Sans Pic Arete
12m. The pleasant clean-cut arete is approached from the right and gives good open climbing. Avoiding the previous routes is...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
10
It Hurts
12m. The 'almost impossible wall' (1988 guide) is climbed by dynamic moves between poor slopers and is said to be completely...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 7a
11
Winters Tale
12m. The green wall is started on the left until it is possible to teeter out right. Finish precariously up the wall.
 HVS 5a
12
Caution Crack
12m. Climb the right-slanting crack with the wider upper section being a mite awkward.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
13
Escape
14m. Climb flakes up the groove below to below the roof then traverse right to access the wide crack behind the buttress....
 S 4a
14
Let's get Killed
12m. The roof and very sketchy face above climbed on extremely dubious death pebbles.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
15
Camel's Arete
8m. The left-hand arete of the face is climbed by laybacking on its left-hand side and is delicate throughout. The upper...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
16
Half Way Chimney
8m. The narrow chimney/wide crack gives awkward jamming. It is only possible to get halfway into it.
 HS 4b
17
Oasis Crack
10m. A crisp jamming-crack which is worth doing. It is possible to finish up the camel's head if required.
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
18
Mutants can be Nice
10m. Climb the blank wall trending right on a line of small holds. Technical and harrowing. Escape off left at the top.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E7 6c
19
Palm Crack
16m. Enter the right-trending crack with difficulty and at its top trend left to bypass the overhangs. Sadly this is becoming...
 HVS 5a
20
Indomitable
12m. Climb the main groove to a rest below the narrow overhangs. Then tiptoe out right to reach easier ground.
 HS 4c
21
The Graceland
12m. Climb the front of the buttress passing a small roof to reach the ledges. Pull up and hand-traverse the shelf leftwards...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E3 5c
22
Pinnacle Front
15m. Climb the wide crack onto a ledge. Then follow the green wall above with a tricky move near the top.
 HS 4b
23
Chicken-pox Wall
15m. The right-hand side of the nose and the crack above.
 VS 4c
24
Good as a Gnu
15m. The arete on the right-hand side of the buttress is the only reason for a visit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For UPPER WILDERNESS

    Nice Edge
    "Best route here with several interesting moves. VS 4c (maybe 5a for the less ta..." 02/Aug

    Cave Crack
    "Weird route - great fun. Just a shame the top section is so easy." 18/Aug

    The Nose
    "Campusing above bad landing with no gear - feels a lot harder than VS! The supp..." 13/Jul

    Wilderness Gully East
    "Nice way to get to the crag or as part of a fell run, excellent in any condition..." 13/Mar

    The Nose
    "Fun Fun Fun, he who dangles dares!!!" 25/Jan

    Ylnosd Rib
    "More roomy than Helfenstein's as I can't get through that but I did manage to sq..." 05/Jun

    Wilderness Gully East
    "Did it in bone dry conditions and it was a very pleasant but easy scramble with ..." 30/May

    Cascade
    "Take ya time and enjoy, no more than S 4a!" 17/Feb

    Stairway
    "A bit of confusion over this one. Stairway is actually the narrow stepped gangw..." 26/Apr

    Mutants can be Nice
    "perhaps you guide book writers should do some research before you describe route..." 06/Jan

    Cascade
    "Agree with Jamie, there is a finishing jug if you can find it but still envolves..." 05/Jan

    Let's get Killed
    "Definately E7 : Easy for 6b, but you have to be very careful about how hard you ..." 29/May

    Cascade
    "Even with a wet top-out it didn't feel like VS. Short, straightforward enough an..." 03/May

    Wilderness Gully East
    "my first ever peak climb due to the soft weather but fantastic fun everyone shou..." 05/Mar

    Search for comments