2nd Quarry

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Trad
Afternoon sun
12 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

An open aspect and worthwhile routes make this quarry the most popular in the complex. The left-hand wall is the showpiece of the quarry with the clean Spanner Wall attracting most attention. The central section has less to offer for the mid-grade climber, but there are three technical gems for the talented including the show-stopping Scoop de Grace. The final wall in this quarry lies beyond a grass slope and faces north. It is split by a fine set of cracks, most of which are worth doing when in condition and well worth steering clear of when not!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tighten Up Yer Nuts
A fiercely-thin finger-traverse with a particularly hard move to reach the jugs and a sprint finish. Memorable.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
2
Iguanodon
Bold and fierce. The blank wall is climbed rightwards by committing moves to better holds where more hard (and even more...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
3
Folies Bergeres
The first crack right of the main angle gives a short tussle and is especially awkward at the start.
 HS
4
Lolita
A precocious little number up the wall and crack.
 HS
5
Harvest Moon
Climb into the hanging groove (ancient peg plus newer one over to the right) swing right to a second groove, then make...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4
6
The Connection
The link-up gives the best way up the wall which is both bold and committing. Replacing the pegs with decent fixed gear might...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
7
Spanner Wall
Bizarre and excellent. From Dead Dog Crack traverse to the spanner (its base is a bit thin, but threading it is better than...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2
8
Dead Dog Crack
The left-hand of the cracks that form an inverted Y.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS
9
Cave Crack
The right-hand arm of the inverted Y.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
10
Midsummer
The flaky right arete of the wall starting just to the right.
 S
11
Hazy Groove
The deep groove stepping right into its extension to finish.
 VD
12
The Cracks
Climb the cracks to an exit left or right.
 S
13
Breakdown
The thin crack in the steep slab is pleasantly technical.
1 user comment
 HVS
14
Yorick's Crack
The thin right-trending mini-seam is superbly desperate. It was only pegged a few times back in t'olden days and so, alas, has...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
15
Overhanging Chimney
The main groove develops from cracks to a wider rift which leads to a rightward exit over the bulge.
 
Graunchy
VS
16
Sagittarius Flake
The hairline crack leads with great difficulty to a final lunge or massive stretch for the top edge.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E5
17
Scoop de Grace
A stunningly technical wall leads into the precarious scoop which is followed rightwards to easy ground. The tall may find the...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E5
18
Phaestus
Walk up the ramp leftwards into more harrowing territory and a tough mantel above a big drop. Bold and technical climbers might...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E4
19
Windbreaker
From the toe of the ramp blast up the centre of the blank slab on a continuously-surprising set of holds.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E2
20
Cochybondhu
The rib on the right-hand side of the slab gives precarious laybacking. Once committed its do or fly!
 
1 Stars
E2
21
Kneepad
The awkward groove is ... er ... awkward, and bit of an ugly beast, but is included for completeness. Knees (and indeed knee...
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
HVS
22
Crosstie
Mantel onto the tip of the slab with difficulty then trend right until a precarious move gains the V-groove of Groove-V Baby...
 
Technical
VS
23
Pipe Spanner
Climb the centre of the slab to a hard sloping exit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
24
Pipe Inspector
Start as for Pipe Spanner but move right then climb direct to a hard exit balancing up into the tiny left-facing groove.
 E3
25
Groove-V Baby
Follow the groove on the right-hand side of the slab (small wires) as it leads pleasantly to a rightward exit.
 
1 Stars
VS
26
Dusty Arete
The ledgy wall is climbed close to the arete. It has a useful iron bar runner and not too much else in the way of gear.
 
1 Stars
Diff
27
Midgebite Express
The arete on its right-hand side.
 
Technical
E2
28
William the Conkerer
Climb the wall 2m right of the grotty groove (Sardonicous, HVS 5b). It is often rather green hence its original moniker.
 E1
29
Paradise Crack
The first crack in the long north-facing wall is not a patch on its Stanage namesake and is probably a grade harder.
 HS
30
Cameo
The central crack of the trio is a little less of a gem than its Wilton twin though still worth doing when clean.
 VS
31
Riddler
The right-hand crack is the pick of the trio. Interest is well-maintained throughout. High in the grade and often green.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
32
Pantagruel
The parallel cracks give gruelling jamming that might well leave you panting. Starting up the right and finishing up the left...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
33
Mangled Digit
The thin wiggling crack is hard on the fingers and gives reachy moves between sketchy jams. Protection is excellent and the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
E3
34
Plumb Line
An excellent straight jamming crack swallows all the gear you can carry. Quite imposing though there a good jams and the odd...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS
35
Passport to the Pits
An eliminate up the wall right of Plumb Line.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E5
36
Liquor, Loose Women and Double Cross
Direct up the thin balancy wall past a peg.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
37
Sodom
Boulder up the wall to reach the left-hand crack which gives painful and sustained finger-jamming. It can also be approached...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E1
38
Gomorrah
The right-hand crack gives good finger jamming on solid lockers with the quality of runners you might hope for. It is easiest...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E1
39
Breakin' for a Bogey
The thin and fingery wall past a peg.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6
40
Cosmic Enforcer
From the bank on the right, swing left and climb the short but exposed left-hand side of the arete. A runner up and right is a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2
41
Unctious
A short wall with a fingery start and a myriad harder variations for those of a bouldering bent.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
S
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  • Latest Comments

    For RUNNING HILL PITS

    Spanner Wall
    "After inevitably snapping a couple of years ago, the spanner is now back and sup..." 29/Aug

    Kiss My Arm
    "Disappeared under the grass!" 06/Aug

    Sodom
    "fantastic route, but very strenuous, thought I was going to come off it all the ..." 11/Jul

    Harvest Moon
    "Ancient ring peg needs replacing. There is a new peg on the Right 2006?" 26/Jun

    Scoop de Grace
    "i think ian vickers/gareth parry may have made an ascent/s" 10/Apr

    Spanner Wall
    "What a route, quirky and fun. Very high in the grade I'd give it 5c british tec..." 01/Apr

    Scoop de Grace
    "Tall people would avoid many of the moves that Dougie had to do as he came in sl..." 04/Feb

    Swing Up
    "Delightful route, nice bit of exposure :-)" 12/Oct

    Eye-catcher
    "Good start, but the leftward traverse to the ledge seems contrived - better to f..." 31/Jul

    Riddler
    "Really green and harder than 5a." 28/Jul

    Plumb Line
    "A mini-classic that climbs exactly how it looks (and also gets you one of the be..." 12/Jul

    Unctious
    "Nice little wall, various problems, good fun." 24/Feb

    Scoop de Grace
    "Got upto the last "decent" hold below the scoup, that was after three ..." 23/Jan

    Plumb Line
    "Naah, the cams are great. Sustained." 08/Sep

    Spanner Wall
    "Doing it from the right makes the route safer for the leader and the seconder (w..." 05/Sep

    Spanner Wall
    "It is possible to place a high runner in Dead Dog Crack and make a few moves acr..." 05/Sep

    Weaver's Wall
    "anyone with a friend half might disagree" 31/Aug

    Maquis
    "The first crack I've HAD to fully tape my hand for. Well protected, definitel..." 01/Aug

    Gomorrah
    "H'mmmm not my forte, finger jams, however I did find this a tad tricky for easy ..." 09/Jul

    Gargantua
    "The hardest E1 I've ever done! Fell off. Very sustained. Overhangs a fair bit. ..." 29/Jun

    Gull-wing
    "Took a fall from near the top when a jug pealed off in my hand! Luckily the cruc..." 23/Apr

    Breakdown
    "Nice, short n'sweet technical problem. Addictive." 09/Apr

    Scoop de Grace
    "Get yourself training hard on the resin and have a crack at it when you're back ..." 10/Feb

    Scoop de Grace
    "How??? Have stood looking at the start for some years now but one word still kee..." 10/Feb

    Phaestus
    "The consequences of fluffing the final hard move probably warrents the E5, as yo..." 10/Sep

    Kneepad
    "A total non route...whyohwhyohwhy is this in?!?" 16/Jul

    Talliot
    "Good pushy little climb, with good gear where it counts. One of them strength sa..." 01/Jun

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