Upper Central Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Lower Central Buttress  |  The Broadwalk >

Trad
Evening sun
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered
Restricted Access

This fine wall is perched high above the valley at the point where the crag changes angle (the routes further left are both difficult to get to and often very green.) This spot is often very windy and the routes feel much more exposed than their lengths would suggest.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Beetler
The scabby rock leads to the beetling roof - a gripper!
 
1 Stars
Strong
Loose
E2
2
The Beetler Arete
The roof and hanging arete.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
E7
3
Chimney and Traverse
Head up the cracked groove to a ledge then move lef and climb an open groove to a final tricky mantel. A more direct finish is...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS
4
Direct Route
Climb through the niche and up the short slanting groove to finish as for the next climb.
 S
5
Central Climb
Climb the wall to the right of a niche then move left onto a rib and continue to the top.
 
1 Stars
VD
6
Easy Buttress
Start on the right-hand end of the ledge and follow a crack up into a corner.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Diff
7
The Illegitimate
Make committing and blind moves up the superb flying arete - gear way over to the left. Once at the top of this sidle left...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3
8
Carsten's Variant
A scary eliminate up the wall left of the corner.The Forceps Finish over the roof is E2 5c.
 
Fluttery
E2
9
Brown's Bastard
15m. An eliminate up the wall left or the corner. The Forceps Finish over the roof is E2 5c.
 
Fluttery
E2 5b
10
Carsten's Abortion
The steep corner-cracks past a potential nesting site. Exit rightwards at the top. Keep away if the nest is occupied.
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2
11
Clockwork Orange
A good direct finish to Downes' Doddle which can be protected by two slings on horns and a cam in the roof.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4
12
Downes' Doddle
Pull up into the hanging scoop. Then move delicately right to a crack which is followed past a huge rocking block.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2
13
Technicolour Yawn
The elegant slim groove gives a good technical problem.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5
14
The Cornice
Climb the groove to a bulge, from which the climb presumably gets its name.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
15
The Cornice Indirect
Traverse right across the face to finish up the blunt arete.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
S
16
Deception
Good climbing past a small overlap and up the blunt arete.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
17
Mossy Slab
Follow the curving flake/groove across the slab which has long been moss-less.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
18
Gather No Moss
A short and technical high-ball boulder problem over the roof on the far right.
 
Technical
Strong
E3
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For HELSBY

    Liverpool Lady Boyz
    "I lead this route over three years ago and gave it the grade of E5 6b this was c..." 13/Oct

    Necrophiliac
    "Yeah if you used a mono you were on morgue slab, E2 5b. The moves on necrophilia..." 14/Jun

    Beatnik
    "My Bad, Beatnik was first top roped by Jim in the 60's and was soloed by Rouse i..." 19/Jul

    The Unknown Quantity
    "Despo. Crux consists of rocking into the pocket off two average crimps and then ..." 13/Sep

    Greenteeth Crack
    "Know someone who's a hotshot at the local wall or on bolted limestone? Point th..." 01/Sep

    Mossy Slab
    "Lower sloping section dirty and thus some apprehension in standing on the indist..." 02/May

    Agag
    "No jamming, no laybacking but painfully wide bridging to pass the overhang - att..." 16/Apr

    Mogadon's Good for You
    "Sounds like you did the second half of CFK (E4 6a), an Andy Popp route which cro..." 25/Sep

    The Wendigo
    "This route is awesome! I cleaned the top holds before getting on it as they were..." 19/May

    Flake Crack
    "I have found Flake Crack's big brother! It's got an uninspiring name - "Un..." 30/Oct

    Morgue Slab
    "So where exactly does this go? I climbed up to a small diagonal crack/undercut ..." 04/Oct

    The Wendigo
    "A great piece of climbing, probably, just about, warranting the fluttery symbol,..." 21/Aug

    Wood's Climb
    "The 5a move at the overlap was always unprotected in the old days (Given VS in A..." 19/Jul

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