Apparent North

Adjacent Areas
< Suzanne  |  The Cowper Stone >

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Morning sun
5 mins
Uphill
Windy

The steep buttress seamed by diagonal overlaps is home to a concentration of hard routes. Recent new routers didn't follow Len Millsom's idea of creating finishing holds, so several of the climbs have desperate exits. Smaller walls to either side offer some short easy climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sleazy Jamming
A short crack on the left of the wall.
1 user comment
 S
2
Easy Jamming
A short-lived crack is worth the effort.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVD
3
Trainer Failure
The pumpy arete is technical and reachy.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
4
The Real 20-foot Crack
The compelling crack is a decent test of your jamming.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
5
Scary Canary
Balance up the right arete of the wall.
 
Technical
HVS
6
Frigid Witch
The steep wall on the left leads to a hard exit.
 HVS
7
Eminence Grise
Climb the bottomless crack then tackle the jutting roof.
 E2
8
Apparent North
Follow the short crack to its end then move round onto the front face. The expected belly-flop finish is made much easier by a...
 
1 Stars
HVS
9
Lead a Dance
Start as for Apparent North but continue the pumpy traverse on jams all the way to the right arete - mega!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1
10
Skinless Wonder
Start up the small hanging arete and make a hard move on undercuts to the break of Apparent North. A hideous shelving exit...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
11
Stanage Without Oxygen
The easiest hard route here pre-dates the others by a decade - it will still leave you breathless! Climb the left side of the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E5
12
Little Women
A high-quality modern desperate. Gain the shelf, place cams in the highest break, then head up and right using a series of poor...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7
13
Groove is in the Heart
Technical and fingery moves through the stacked overlaps in the scoop to another rounded finish. Only led with pre-placed RPs.
 
3 Stars
E7
14
Black Car Burning
An arduous climb up the vertical face on the right. Start under the final scoop of Groove is in the Heart and trend right to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E7
15
Magnetic North
Climb the arete (a nice problem ) and move right to a jutting ledge. At the roof swing back left to a difficult exit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
16
True North
From the large boulder jammed in the gully, climb up the right-hand side of the blunt arete on the left, finishing up a short...
 VS
17
Massacre
A pumpy hand-traverse to a rapid exit.
2 user comments
 E1
18
Eeny
The wall on the left with a tricky start.
 
Technical
HVD
19
Meeny
The centre of the wall has an awkward rounded top-out.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
20
Miny
.. and so does the line just left of the arete.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS
21
Miny Arete
The arete itself may still hold a loose flake in the break.
1 user comment
 HS
22
Spare Rib
The centre of the tower has an exciting pull on the top wall. Avoiding the left arete makes it more like 4b.
1 user comment
 VD
23
Scrag End
The crack on the right is beefy towards the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVD
24
Petty Larceny
A problem which pretends to be a route. The bulge above the leaning block is surmounted by way of an unlikely finger-tip...
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
25
Body Roll Finish
The left-edge of the roof directly above the start.
 
Technical
E3
26
Small Time Crook
The centre of the wall and the desperate roof above.
 
Technical
E2
27
Grand Theft
Trend right up the wall then reach left to a mantel finish.
 E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Cold Turkey
    "Don't forget your small cams! (size 0, 0.5 &1)" 16/Aug

    The Mersey Variant
    "It is steep and the top end of 5C but has good hard moves, between good gear, to..." 02/Sep

    Via Roof Route
    "Two highly contrasting pitches: precarious slab climbing - usually on rock that ..." 20/Aug

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

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