Sly Buttress

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Morning sun
6 mins
Uphill

The final buttresses at the Newstones are very pleasantly situated. They offer less for the boulderer but there is still plenty there; just follow the chalk and your imagination. For roped teams, the cracks on Sly Buttress are of considerable interest.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Puffed Up
8m. Powerful moves up the sidewall lead to a harrowing exit.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Rounded
E4
2
Rhynose
8m. Climb the easy crack in the sidewall then make exposed and awkward moves in to the final groove that cuts the roof .
 
1 Stars
VS
3
Hippo
8m. Follow the groove and the shallow chimney through the bulges and wallow on up the front face.
 VD
4
Rosehip
8m. Climb rightwards through the lower bulges then continue up the easier flaky wall above.
1 user comment
 S
5
The Witch
8m. Climb the groove left of the flakes (thread) then step left and wander up the mild face watching for crusty rock.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Diff
6
Candy Man
8m. Climb rightwards up the front of the buttress over a series of bulges on the large perched flakes.
 S
7
Trepidation
10m. One for cold weather only. Climb to the left-to-right break. Take this into the centre of the wall and finish...
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E4
8
The Snake
12m. Access the ramp with difficulty, sneak left then crawl back along the break to reach relief in the easy chimney. Inelegant...
1 user comment
 
Technical
HS
9
The Fox
10m. Use cunning to tackle the wide crack. The chockstone had gone but is back again, its rotation compounds the already...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Graunchy
E2
10
The Vixen
10m. The right-hand crack gives excellent though short-lived jamming. Step left into the easy chimney to finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
HVS
11
Valley of Ultravixens
10m. From the vein, step left onto the slab and balance up warily.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E3
12
Sly Corner
Start around to the right and rock up onto the arete. Tiptoe along to the centre of the vein then up.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS
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  • Latest Comments

    For NEWSTONES AND BALDSTONES

    Gold Rush
    "A nice route, with lots of variety - easy slab, awkward scoop, small overhang an..." 18/Jun

    Trepidation
    "E3 5c in anything but sizzling summer heat. Does feel scary though for something..." 02/Jan

    The Witch
    "good thread near the start, but not much more gear placements on it. The upper s..." 09/Sep

    Praying Mantle
    "Indeed, the sit-start boulder problem is as good as the route... Try this one f..." 02/Jun

    The Vixen
    "There's a secret hand hold which makes cranking it easy. 2 moves, and it's in th..." 23/Mar

    Sly Corner
    "A good problem exists right of this from the two crimps up to a dish around font..." 20/Mar

    Praying Mantle
    "Worth adding the sit-start at Font 6c. H.D." 09/Aug

    The Vixen
    "Desperate. I thought I could jam until I tried this. Couldn't even get into the ..." 28/Apr

    Johnny's Indirect Rear Entry
    "Current line incorrect. Checking with JD it definitely finishes up Ray's Roof b..." 23/Jun

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