Sly Buttress Area

Adjacent Areas
< Charlie's Overhang Area  |  None >

Trad
Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill

The furthest buttresses at the Newstones are very pleasantly situated. They offer less for the boulderer but there is still plenty there; just follow the chalk and your imagination (or check the ROCKFAX Bouldering guide). For roped routes the cracks on Sly Buttress are of interest.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rhynose
8m. Climb the easy crack in the side wall then make exposed and awkward moves in to the final groove that cuts the roof.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
2
Hippo
8m. Follow the groove and the shallow chimney through the bulges and wallow on up the front face.
 VD
3
Rosehip
8m. Climb rightwards through the lower bulges then continue up the easier flaky wall above.
 S 4a
4
The Witch
8m. Climb the groove left of the flakes then step left and wander up the mild face watching for crusty rock.
1 user comment
 Diff
5
Candy Man
8m. Climb rightwards up the front of the buttress over a series of bulges on the large perched flakes.
 S 4a
6
Trepidation
10m. Start on the left and climb to the left-to-right break. Take this into the centre of the wall and finish with ... well you...
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E4 6a
7
The Snake
12m. Access the ramp with difficulty, shimmy left then crawl back along the break to reach relief in the easy chimney.
1 user comment
 
Technical
HS 4b
8
The Fox
10m. Use cunning to tackle the wide left-hand crack. Reach the loose chockstone and wrestle with this then finish more easily....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
E2 5b
9
The Vixen
10m. The right-hand crack gives excellent though short-lived jamming. Passing the initial overhang is the crux. Step left into...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
10
Sly Corner
Start around to the right and rock up onto the arete. Tiptoe along to the centre of the vein then up. Using the vein for your...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For NEWSTONES

    Trepidation
    "E3 5c in anything but sizzling summer heat. Does feel scary though for something..." 02/Jan

    The Witch
    "good thread near the start, but not much more gear placements on it. The upper s..." 09/Sep

    Praying Mantle
    "Indeed, the sit-start boulder problem is as good as the route... Try this one f..." 02/Jun

    The Vixen
    "There's a secret hand hold which makes cranking it easy. 2 moves, and it's in th..." 23/Mar

    Sly Corner
    "A good problem exists right of this from the two crimps up to a dish around font..." 20/Mar

    Praying Mantle
    "Worth adding the sit-start at Font 6c. H.D." 09/Aug

    The Vixen
    "Desperate. I thought I could jam until I tried this. Couldn't even get into the ..." 28/Apr

    The Snake
    "A rather strange route. Not very elegant but fun." 01/Nov

    Search for comments