The Alcove and Electric Circus

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
5 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

From the foot of the steps the first rock encountered is a shady bay with the central classic line of Alcove Crack. Just beyond this is the soaring jutting edge of The Arete. The angle of the rock and the tree canopy means that routes here often stay dry during light summer rain.
Descents - Many of the routes finish in the trees at the top of the crag. An abseil from here is the best way down.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Basic Arete
8m. Climb the left arete of the alcove until an escape into the groove on the right becomes essential. Descend down here.
 E1
2
Alcove Crack
20m. The dramatic fissure in the back wall of The Alcove gives a steep (as in overhanging) and well-protected tussle.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS
3
The Sandman
20m. The scruffy corner leads to the big ledge. Step left and follow the steep seam until the sandy hole on the right can be...
 
Pumpy
Loose
E1
4
Porky's Wall
8m. The fingery centre of the wall on the jutting buttress on the right-hand side of the alcove.
 
Technical
Crimpy
HVS
5
Piggy's Crack
8m. The short crack in the wall. Beware, bees in the summer.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
6
The Steeple
8m. The steep arete on the right of The Alcove.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
7
Clotted Cream
8m. The short right arete of the squat buttress is pleasant enough.
 VS
8
The Arete
22m. A long and impressive arete with steep and intimidating climbing that is high in the grade. Some of the rock is a bit...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E2
9
Mather Crack
22m. The long steep crack gives a good pumpy pitch. The quality of the runners makes up just a little for the angle and the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
E2
10
Electric Circus
26m. A big scary pitch weaving its way up the wall - low in the grade but quite harrowing. Climb to the top of the flake then...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E3
11
Oak Tree Wall
22m. Plugs the gap in the centre of the wall. Climb Electric Circus for 5m then traverse right and climb up to the overhang,...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3
12
The Grim Reaper
22m. An arduous outing up the right-hand side of the wall - bold and fierce. Climb the wall - Enigma Variation a f7A+ dyno - to...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
13
Transformation
20m. Tackle the crack and thrutchy groove past the useful shrub.
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS
14
Stonewall Crack
20m. The blocky groove above the walling.
 
Loose
HVS
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For NEW MILLS TOR

    The Redemption of a Grit Pegging Antichrist
    "Has a hold come off this? This is the 2nd time I've tried but not done this rout..." 15/Oct

    Heavy Duty
    "Aye, good route. Needs to be climbed quick unless you're a stamina monster. Hold..." 21/Jul

    King of the Swingers
    "A rather below average photo of this part of the crag in W Grit (2003) makes it ..." 09/May

    Original Route
    "There's a few loose flakes, but the holds are good thoughout. My first abseil d..." 03/May

    The Grim Reaper
    "Yes. I watched someone who now works at AW Stockport do it with the direct V9ish..." 26/Apr

    The Steeple
    "This sounds the same route as Clotted Cream?" 03/May

    Viaduct Wall
    "MAT not MAP whoops." 26/Jul

    Viaduct Crack
    "pouring down with rain ,dry as a bone on a wacky route" 14/Jun

    Alcove Crack
    "This is a really cool route, I really enjoyed it, lots of nice holds and gear." 12/May

    King of the Swingers
    "Forgot to mention she ended up hanging in the tree about 5ft out from the rock :..." 09/Mar

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