Upper Western Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
70 mins
Up and Down
Windy

The western-most decent cliff hereabouts has a sunny aspect and some good routes on the Upper Tier. The Lower Tier is dirty and best avoided and the left-hand side of the upper face is a bit crusty. Despite this, the upper right-hand area has some good routes in as fine a setting as any on the moor.
Approach (see map on page 178) - Either walk in from the Snake Summit, or take the Hayfield approach past Kinder Reservoir. Cross a footbridge over William Clough and continue up to the col or attack the slope direct. Follow the moor crest path rightwards (southeast) for about 200m until you are above the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Yellow Brick Road
The wall just left of the hanging arete is a approached by a short traverse from the left and has one extended reach.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E2
2
The Jolsen Finish
Gain the right-hand side of the arete from the easy corner to the right.
 
1 Stars
VS
3
Spike Chimney
The deep rift on the left is worth seeking out and is climbed, passing the huge ringing flake of the spike.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Diff
4
Once in a Blue Moon
The left arete of the buttress has taxing and reachy moves at mid-height with interesting gear. Above this things ease.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E3
5
The Dark Side of the Moon
The right arete of the buttress is approached through bulges (big thread) and climbed with a brief excursion onto its...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E3
6
Extinguisher Chimney
A classic narrowing-chimney which is less of a battle than it looks. Face right and squirm into the narrows to reach a ledge...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
VS
7
Candle Buttress
The buttress right of Extinguisher Chimney is gained awkwardly from the right and climbed delicately (useful flake round left)...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS
8
The Atrocity Exhibition
A direct variation on Candle Buttress.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1
9
Leaf Shelf
12m. Pull into the hanging crack with Diculty to reach the right trending crack-line which gives easier climbing.
 VS 4c
10
Intermediate Route
Climb the striated wall slightly leftwards then finish back right up the rib that forms the edge of the previous route
3 user comments
 
Rounded
HS
11
South Wall
A little gem of a layback up the left-trending flakes. Western Grit's version of Stanage's Heaven Crack.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
12
Pedestal Climb
The front face of the squat pedestal leads to a groove.
 
1 Stars
Diff
13
45 Degrees
The short and sketchy slab is a good test of technique and is much steeper than the name suggests.
 
Technical
Rounded
HVS
14
Curving Crack
The obviously-named groove is tricky to enter then eases.
 
Strong
S
15
Rock Reptile
Slink up the right wall of the open recess using a fingery flake to make progress.
 
Crimpy
HVS
16
Singer Corner
Enter the hanging layback with difficulty though on biffos.
 
Strong
S
17
M.G. Route
The steep and juggy crack is quite a gripper.
 
Strong
HS
18
Monkey Magic
The steep wall to the right of the arete has a useful flake hold and provides good technical moves.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS
19
Esgee Crack
The steep and widening crack is uphill!
 
Graunchy
S
20
The Funnel
The obviously-named feature is fine for double jointed dwarfs, and a battle for the rest of us.
 HS
21
Eastern Promise
Climb the wall, starting on the right up a thin crack, and continuing with care.
 
Technical
Rounded
HVS
22
Eastern Crack
The short-lived crack on glorious jams.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
S
23
Eastern Arete
Pull leftwards onto the hanging arete and then sprint.
 HVS
24
End Wall
The final short but unprotected wall on sloping holds.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS
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  • Latest Comments

    For KINDER DOWNFALL

    Intermediate Route
    "Definately a very powerfull moves round the overhang but then it is all over." 06/Sep

    Zig-zag
    "great atmosphere, and not as slippery as the green shade made it look." 01/Aug

    Zig-zag
    "You don't get many VDs that are as steep, juggy and in such a superb setting as ..." 27/Jun

    Zig-zag
    "The highest ratio of jugs per metre of any route I can remember!" 01/Jun

    Zig-zag
    "Great climb and well worth the trip. The top move took some thought but as with ..." 17/Apr

    Downfall South Corner
    ""Clean as you climb"...don't leave it to others!" 16/Dec

    Downfall South Corner
    "Might be worth a second star if cleaned up." 14/Dec

    South Wall
    ""Western Grit's excellent answer to Heaven Crack" How many answers ..." 13/Aug

    Embarkation Parade
    "A good adventure but looks awful. We did our bit as gardeners but much more is n..." 10/Sep

    Intermediate Route
    "Might be harder for the short since I broke a foothold off of the lip near the b..." 16/Feb

    Zig-zag
    "Why are there no comments for this? Surely the best climb for atmosphere at its..." 08/Aug

    The Dark Side of the Moon
    "Easy for the tall (6 foot), and I would have thought desperate for the short (le..." 19/Jul

    Pegasus Left-hand
    "Filthy." 18/Jul

    Crooked Arete
    "A classic route up the arete for those who like to pose for the large numbers of..." 11/Jul

    Slip Sliding Away
    "This has now slip slided away, as in the hanging block is now lying on the floor..." 10/Jul

    Candle Buttress
    "We can't take one vote at each grade as very reliable!! Chris" 23/Apr

    Candle Buttress
    "I'm not surpised that the voting is placing this as an E1; I found it to be a ha..." 23/Apr

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