Blackstone Edge Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

This compact buttress is divided by a series of wide chimneys up which many of the easier and more traditional lines go with Central Crack being the pick. The other quality routes tend to be on the faces with Little Miss Id and her Variations probably being the best.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Slim Jim
The hanging crack that faces the top of the Roman Road.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS
2
Manibus et Pedibusque
A fierce and scary traverse of the left wall of the chimney.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4
3
Nor Nor' Chimney
Enter the cave recess then do battle with the chimney rising from its left-hand corner.
 
Graunchy
VD
4
North Cave
The easier exit from the cave is rightwards up another chimney. The Direct Start is a grovelly 4c up the steep groove.
 
Graunchy
M
5
Belly on a Plate
Delightful! Climb the groove then flop out left onto the ledge. Finish up the well-positioned right arete of the chimney.
 VS
6
The Mangler
The leaning jamming-crack is a bit of a carnivore. Awkward throughout but fun in a perverse kind of way.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS
7
Cornflake
The flakes in the left wall of Central Gully give a pitch of escalating interest and difficult. Protection is adequate but...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E2
8
Central Crack
The left-hand crack in the recess was well-scoured by nailed boots in the past. Start awkwardly then continue by laybacking and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VD
9
Central Eliminate
An uncomfortable eliminate up the ever-narrowing face. Trying to avoid the routes to either side is the real crux!
 
Technical
VS
10
Central Groove
The right-hand groove would be worth more stars if it was a little less inclined to be green.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
11
Master Ego
Layback the arete to the bulge and sneak round its left-hand side to reach the ledge just above. A long reach from a rounded...
 
Rounded
E2
12
Little Miss Id Variations
Climb the wall to below the roof then move out right to gain the ledge. Finish right from here with difficulty on sloping...
 
1 Stars
E3
13
Little Miss Id
Excellent and surprisingly taxing. Climb the blunt arete with increasing difficulty then make hard and precarious moves up and...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
14
Tryche
Climb the difficult wall passing a runnerable pocket, then continue up a shallow groove on poor holds to hard final moves. A...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5
15
Pots
Climb the shallow flakes just left of the chimney to their termination, shuffle left along the break then climb back rightwards...
 
Rounded
E2
16
Outside Edge
Bridge up the outer edge of the chimney by exposed moves with protection to left and right. Harder for the short!
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS
17
South Chimney
An awkward start enters 'the reading room' then select a suitable upward exit towards daylight. The star is for the historical...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
Diff
18
Twin Cracks
Climb the chimney using either or both cracks. Well-protected throughout. The right-hand crack direct is VDiff.
 Diff
19
Palmistry
Climb the right arete of the chimney/groove to a good ledge. Move over right to finish up the shallow rounded groove.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E2
20
No Sign of Three
Climb the right-hand side of the face then move left to a shallow groove and climb the right-hand side of this to ledges. Take...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E2
21
Swot and Heaty
The arete and wall above have reasonable protection.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E4
22
Doomidest Hay
Start below pocket and climb to it (poor gear) then move up and right before heading back left to finish.FA Nick Dixon...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E5
23
Slin and Thippy
The belicate and dold wall also has a founded rinish.
 E4
24
Pendulum Swing Direct
From the foot of the polished crack climb the wall boldly on sloping holds to the base of the wide crack above. Finish up this.
 
Fluttery
HVS
25
Pendulum Swing
The well-polished crack on the right (better if you avoid the boulder) leads to a tricky traverse back left using a line of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS
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  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKSTONE EDGE

    Central Groove
    "It would be a fine route if it wasn't so green and slippery" 12/Jan

    No Sign of Three
    "Great gear and good resting positions separated by hard moves and long reaches. ..." 25/Sep

    Tryche
    "Tricky number but E4 not E5" 08/Aug

    Slim Jim
    "** - Most of the climbs here were either too easy or too hard for me (VS - HVS) ..." 17/Jun

    Tryche
    "Dose of Death. Peak E5" 11/Apr

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