Cow's Mouth Quarry Routes

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Afternoon sun
20 mins
Up and Down

A pair of contrasting faces, one slabby and pleasant and the other steep and hard, no guesses as to which one is the most popular! Both get the afternoon sun and dry rapidly. Further right is sheltered from the worst of the wind, though inclined to be green after wet weather.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cornette
The awkward blocky groove leads to the juggy arete. Escape off left. A safe first lead.
 
1 Stars
Diff
2
Slab Crossing
Climb the groove then hand-traverse the break rightwards until a ledge can be gained by a mantel. Continue into and up the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS
3
Deadline
A direct line up the face one metre right of the groove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
4
Route 1
Balance up and right to good holds and runners in the break. Finish up the left-hand groove above to a rounded mantel.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
5
King B
Make a bold start up the centre of the slab to the break. Then climb the shallow groove above avoiding Route 1.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1
6
Route 2
Climb the shallow groove (Rock 1 on the right) then balance left and right to the break and more wires. Finish up the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS
7
Slabmaster
Climb the groove to a ledge then the slotted wall above until it becomes necessary to move left and join Route 2.
 VS
8
Route Right
Trend right from the start of Slabmaster until forced off the slab. Finish up the easy chimney; a bit of an anticlimax.
 HS
9
Jack and Ed's Route
Climb the wall left of the arete via a groove to the top.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5
10
Daytona Wall
A bold outing that weaves across the impressive buttress. Since the demise of the ancient bolt runner, it is pretty much...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
11
Daytona Wall Direct
Climb a faint crack up the lower wall to joint the regular route at the bulge. Pull up to the pocket and finish direct.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5
12
Boldness Through Ignorance
From the Direct sketch up and right past where a peg used to be to some small finger-pockets and a scary finish.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
E8
13
Overlapper
Climb the flaky groove to the bulge then pull left to gain a good pocket, the continuation crack and a sprint finish.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
14
Lapper
Follow the groove throughout then make a pumpy hand-traverse out right to finish.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1
15
Dessers
The thin crack has an awkward moves to overcome the initial crucial section.
 
Crimpy
VS
16
Sard
After a tricky start head up the fingery wall, or access it from the next route at a more amenable VS 4c.
 
Crimpy
HVS
17
Seazy
The thin crack with a triangular niche at three metres. Passing this is tricky though it is steep above.
 
Technical
HS
18
Groovin'
From a block climb the shallow groove and escape left.
 HS
19
The Romeo Error
Sketch up the slab to a mantel, hop onto it (hard) then sneak off left to avoid the cornice. A left-hand start is a grade...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1
20
Screwy
More thin climbing up the face just right of the unclippable in-situ gear (they look like nails to me). An ancient peg just...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
21
Groundhog
The face is on small holds to a grubby exit. A side-runner drops the grade a notch. Just keep trying until you get it right!
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1
22
Sandy Crack
The crack just left of the chimney/corner is usually clean. No bridging allowed at this grade.
 VS
23
Curving Chimney
The rift is 'orrible and desperate too!
 Diff
24
Jumping Jive
Leap for the ledge then finish leftwards.
 
Reachy
E1
25
Pavanne
Crawl on to the ledge then trend right to the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
26
Overhanging Crack
The excellent but short hand-crack has a tricky exit.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS
27
Z Crack
A little classic that thinks its HVS. Well-protected. Finish direct with a long reach or follow the logical line left at real...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS
28
The Don
The blank and bold wall right of Z Crack.
 
Fluttery
E2
29
Los Endos
A problem start up the arete leads to easier ground.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
30
Scree? Pain!
Nasty. Climb the wall, using a slot, to a scary finish.
 
Fluttery
E3
31
Flupper
Climb the scooped wall until forced right to easier ground.
 VS
32
Flipper
Polished holds just right of the arete are pleasant.
 S
33
Flopper
Use an undercut to reach rounded holds and a quick pull.
 VS
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  • Latest Comments

    For COW'S MOUTH QUARRY

    Boldness Through Ignorance
    "Craig, the route I climbed is discussed here: ukbouldering.com/board/index.ph..." 21/Oct

    Boldness Through Ignorance
    "Where exactly does Visions from the dark side climb? How was it done on the firs..." 30/May

    Daytona Wall
    "tried the on sight solo but fell off crux due to real dirty holds (was like that..." 12/May

    Boldness Through Ignorance
    "My route up the pockets and arete to the left doesnt seem to be in your database..." 26/Oct

    Daytona Wall
    "I dont think we had friends that small in 1977 did we Con? But I'd practised a n..." 09/Mar

    Route 1
    "Not sure this is 4c. Climbed it in the wet. Was only able to get a not very good..." 14/May

    Z Crack
    "geting of the ground proved the hardest for me, once higher in the crack it eas..." 09/Aug

    Z Crack
    "compared to other VS routes anywhere, it's harder, especially the finish leftwar..." 26/May

    Overlapper
    "Thirded! Basher told me once that 3 Little Piggies was the hardest problem he..." 20/Feb

    Z Crack
    "Balls, its just a good VS,4c" 17/Feb

    Boldness Through Ignorance
    "Led ethically without the peg and now warrants E8 6c. Solo. very good route." 16/Dec

    Daytona Wall Direct
    "Now the proud owner of a number of kittens." 18/Sep

    Slab Crossing
    "really good, well protected (friends in break))traverse" 27/Jun

    Daytona Wall Direct
    "Dont say that, Phil will have kittens." 09/Jun

    Overlapper
    "You missed out Three Little Piggies on the tier below, which is a hilarious E3. ..." 11/Apr

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