Lady Jane Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
5 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

The long wall to the left of the entrance has many good routes though a high percentage are hard. The holds on the blanker sections are often so small that they are often invisible unless chalked by previous climbers. There are easier offerings at either end of the wall. Running along the top of the wall are nine bee-hive-shaped niches that aid route identification.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Too Bold for Steve Boot
The first offering, just right of the upper arete is a typically deceptive Pex route. Benchmark and harder than it looks!
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
f5
2
Set Square
The wall with a jig right at half-height to reach the left-hand triangular slot, high in the grade. A direct start is f5+.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS
3
Tequila Sunrise
Head straight through the right-hand triangular slot.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
f6A+
4
Harvey Wallbanger
The wall 1m right on small holds. Requires an udge or a stretch.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
f5+
5
Black Russian
A direct line 1m right again heading straight to the step at the top of the cliff; interesting and hard to start.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
f6B
6
Lew's Leap
Climb straight to the first of the niches. A short hop for its base is normal. The right-hand start is f5+. Tricky and a bit...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
f5+
7
Finger-Ripper
An eliminate just right of the first niche. Gnarly in the extreme.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
f7A
8
Bermuda Triangle
A brilliant problem past the second niche. A hard, reachy start leads right to a rest and then more hard moves. The top out is...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
f6C
9
Cosine Alternative
A once forgotten counter line to Bermuda Triangle. Can be used to gain the upper section of Bermuda Triangle for shorties.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
f6B+
10
Breakaway
Straight up the wall on a series of tiny, tiny holds. Utterly desperate, with steel tendons the minimum requirement. PLEASE go...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
f7B
11
Catalepsy
Reach the third niche by a sustained series of pulls. Very reachy and balancy.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
f7A+
12
Monoblock
Said to be "The Hardest Route in the World", with holds little bigger than decent-sized atoms - and spaced ones at that!
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
f8A
13
Bernie
The easiest line on this section of wall! Start right of the old bolts and a bit more like E4 6b if the bolts are actually...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
f7A
14
Termination
Make a desperate move to reach the ledge then the large pocket.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
f7A+
15
Philharmonic
Tall climbers can by-pass the crux.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
f6B 6b
16
Algripper
The wall is climbed via two good pockets, linking them is hard and a bit higher than you want it to be.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
f6A+
17
Jurassic Pork
A blank wall with a hard move using a pebble. Now clean.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
f7A
18
Lady Jane
Climb the right-trending ramp; swing right and follow the pockets to the top passing the left-hand of a pair of niches. Low in...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1
19
Crossbow
Move left into the niche from Lady Jane. Recently cleaned.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1
20
Sidestep
Climb straight up the the final section of Lady Jane.
 
1 Stars
E1
21
Twin Scoops Direct
Climb straight up the wall to the right-hand niche by a balancy mantelshelf and a bit of stretch. Especially reachy for the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E1
22
Twin Scoops
At last an easier offering. Climb the ledgy wall then follow the holds leftwards past Twin Scoops Direct to finish up Lady...
 
2 Stars
HVS
23
Twin Scoops Right-hand
Direct above the start of Twin Scoops.
 E2
24
Creeping Jesus
Climb Twin Scoops to the last decent ledge then step right to a good finger-jam (wire) and a sprint finish. Direct start is...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E1
25
Kitt's Wall
Link the three pockets by hard moves. f6B+.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
26
The Black Pimp from Marseilles
The wall to the left of the low relief blunt rib which is the main feature of this part of the face. f7A.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6
27
Unicorn
Fine climbing straight up the blunt rib to a recess just below the cliff top, exit direct. It used to go left to avoid the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3
28
Cave Route Right-hand
A hard and bold eliminate via the square pocket. f7A.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
29
Ladytron
The bold wall between the two blunt ribs to a rounded exit. Named after a Roxy Music track in the early 70s.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4
30
Cardiac Arete
Boulder up to the break then from the jug make crucial moves to marginally easier ground. f6C+.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4
31
Hart's Arete
The bold, blunt arete feels big for its size and is suffering from polish. The grade given is for a lead since there is...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E4
32
Zigger Zagger
The stretchy wall has a gripping sloping exit - beware.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
Fluttery
E2
33
Big Greenie
The wall started from The Hulk is high but cams protect.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3
34
The Hulk
Left of the crack. You won't like it when you are angry!
 E2
35
Hart's Arete Traverse
Start at the crack (Crack and Up) and traverse left to Unicorn. The higher break is f6A+ and the ultra-low level is f7C.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
f6C
36
Crack and Up
The prominent crack gives a good route with solid gear, good holds and a low crux, which might just be 5c!
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1
37
Corner and Overhang
Start up Crack and Up but step right to climb the wall just to its right by sustained moves on reasonably sized holds for...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E2
38
McArthur Park
Climb the pocketed wall (fierce start) past the twin slots.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3
39
Eliminate One
The first of four tightly-packed routes.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2
40
The Abort
A high move on sloping holds feels bold - cams will help.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1
41
Eliminate Two
3m left of the corner climb past the edge of the recesses.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2
42
One Step
2m left of the corner through the horizontal slot near the top.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1
43
Eliminate Three
Just left of the corner.
 E3
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  • Latest Comments

    For PEX HILL

    The Abort
    "HVS 5a, like One Step, but with a balancy top-out." 02/Jun

    Catalepsy
    "tried this last yr and couldn't quite manage it. Since then a some vigorous 'cle..." 25/Jun

    Harvey Wallbanger
    "Definitely called Harvey Warbanger in the old Al Rouse guide (Pex Hill section b..." 30/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "I think the start of Hart's is one problem that demonstrates the differences in ..." 26/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "E3 6b *** (OS Lead, no mats). A very fine route which is well worth leading. The..." 02/May

    Staminade
    "The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he did not exi..." 15/Apr

    Staminade
    "I stand corrected, oh great one. So you still exist and haven't turned into an u..." 30/Jan

    Staminade
    "Having read the comment on Staminade not being led...nope it was lead regularly ..." 21/Jan

    Dateline
    "Did this and cobweb crack. This is much harder particularly as it was very damp..." 28/May

    Hart's Arete
    "Nailed the start today. Saw a guy working it in the wrong way (starting to the l..." 12/May

    Too Bold for Steve Boot
    "benchmark pex hil 5b this. don't cheat..." 10/May

    Straight Crack
    "I would push the grade up just because the top outs so crap. Dont be tempted to ..." 01/May

    Breakaway
    "Well done whoever did the wire brushing, you have brought it down to your level...." 11/Apr

    Catalepsy
    "I find the crux is the move after, but that's because I'm a short ar*e" 05/Apr

    Black Russian
    "how do you do it. I think Im on the right route but its ver close to wallbanger...." 05/Apr

    Bermuda Triangle
    "The starts hard when the foot ripples are wet and slimy! Feels on the tougher si..." 07/Feb

    Padarn Dance
    "Damn. They used to do that stuff in the Black Dog as well..." 07/Feb

    Padarn Dance
    "No Andi. The Padarn. All the clues were there for the taking." 07/Feb

    Padarn Dance
    "this wouldn't be Ian Lonsdale's pub the Black Dog would it?" 06/Feb

    Cosine Alternative
    "I agree it's not 6b, prob hard 6a, but it doesn't ease of as much as Bermuda" 31/Jan

    Ladytron
    "named after a roxy music track, about 1973 ish." 21/Jan

    Memorial Wall
    "This deserves at least a "1"" 17/Nov

    Cobweb Crack
    "Each wall immediately to the side of the crack (without using it!) goes at a re..." 30/Sep

    Warlock
    "Fun move high up where you sort of 1 armed mantle and layoff to gain a good jug ..." 01/Sep

    The Knife
    "Don't bother with the gear, solo it for the full value experience. Well worth E5..." 20/Aug

    Dateline
    "well deserved 3 stars" 10/Aug

    Hunter's Walk
    "Certainly a brave topout without the use of agent orange. This wall has two or t..." 24/Jul

    Four Jays
    "The wall between FourJays and The Wizard gives a completely independent (put the..." 08/Jul

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