Dateline Wall

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Pisa Wall >

Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

The recessed bay to the right of the entry has a whole series of hard and bold face climbs plus the classic crack of Dateline. The climbs are soloed by the talented, though most are inclined to top-rope them, and leading is possible if you know the tricks. The bay is home to many of the hardest climbs in the quarry, after a dry spell the amount of chalk on them shows how many good climbers there are out there.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Knife
The arete that forms the edge of the bay was once cutting edge and it remains quite superb. Amigos in the pockets can protect...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
2
Catemytes Crack
The shallow groove in the wall. Can be led with Amigos.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
3
Main Wall
From a little way up Catemytes, move right across the wall using pockets to a groove. Climb this to a rightward exit.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5
4
Staminade
Climb the hard wall straight into the base of the shallow groove, layback up this then exit to the right. The grade is for...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6
5
One of These Days
Climb the right wall of the corner starting at a slot and trending left to enter the groove. Bridge up it - high in the grade.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E3
6
One of These Days Direct Finish
Follow the regular route then continue up the wall above passing the niche by bridging and undercutting .
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
7
Padarn Dance
Climb the wall left of the crack. No touching the crack! A side-runner in Dateline is required at this grade.Originally...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
E5
8
One of These Days Direct
Bridge the oft damp angle that bounds the left-hand edge of the back wall. Finish more easily up the parent route. Worth a star...
2 user comments
 
Technical
E3
9
Dateline
The once-pegged crack is a classic pumpy pitch. It can be soloed by the talented and led by the merely good. Harder when damp...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3
10
Sinbad
The wall just right of the crack on tiny holds. E5 with an easy-to-place side runner in Dateline; it may not have been done...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Rounded
E6
11
Depression
A couple of slopy slots allow the start of a depressingly-difficult sequence up the wall just right with a crucial mono where a...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
12
Exit On Air
Climb the wall to a bubbly break then traverse right, crossing Black Magic, to join Acid Test just in time to tackle its...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7
13
Black Magic
Magic indeed. Climb the fingery and technical wall, easing with height. Sadly the route was chipped by some half-witted...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5
14
Black Magic Direct
Continue trending slightly right where the regular route starts to follow the better holds out to the left. Probably never been...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6
15
Acid Test
The right-hand of the popular lines on this section of wall. Trend gradually left to eventually move up and left from a slot...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5
16
Parker's Mood
The direct finish to Acid Test. Probably never been led.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6
17
Euphoria
The wall right of Acid Test. Probably never been led.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6
18
Never Mind the Acid
The wall 3m left of the corner. Trend right at the top to a crack where gear is available - sadly above the hard moves!
1 user comment
 
Technical
E4
19
Treadmill
Start 2m left of the corner and get pedalling!
 E3
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For PEX HILL

    The Abort
    "HVS 5a, like One Step, but with a balancy top-out." 02/Jun

    Catalepsy
    "tried this last yr and couldn't quite manage it. Since then a some vigorous 'cle..." 25/Jun

    Harvey Wallbanger
    "Definitely called Harvey Warbanger in the old Al Rouse guide (Pex Hill section b..." 30/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "I think the start of Hart's is one problem that demonstrates the differences in ..." 26/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "E3 6b *** (OS Lead, no mats). A very fine route which is well worth leading. The..." 02/May

    Staminade
    "The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he did not exi..." 15/Apr

    Staminade
    "I stand corrected, oh great one. So you still exist and haven't turned into an u..." 30/Jan

    Staminade
    "Having read the comment on Staminade not being led...nope it was lead regularly ..." 21/Jan

    Dateline
    "Did this and cobweb crack. This is much harder particularly as it was very damp..." 28/May

    Hart's Arete
    "Nailed the start today. Saw a guy working it in the wrong way (starting to the l..." 12/May

    Too Bold for Steve Boot
    "benchmark pex hil 5b this. don't cheat..." 10/May

    Straight Crack
    "I would push the grade up just because the top outs so crap. Dont be tempted to ..." 01/May

    Breakaway
    "Well done whoever did the wire brushing, you have brought it down to your level...." 11/Apr

    Search for comments