Pisa Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Dateline Wall  |  Lady Jane Wall >

Bouldering
Early morning sun
5 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

The most popular section of the quarry with the polish and the chalk to prove it. Turn right at the bottom of the steps and you are there. The 'up' routes are almost all well worth doing, and the top-outs are quite high for boulder problems. The variations on the low-level traverse are also great.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Widow
The scruffy corner on the left has become overgrown again.
1 user comment
 f5
2
Jota
The wall 1.5m right of the corner see little action.
 
Fluttery
f6A+
3
Polar Bear
Start 2m right of the corner and reach the deep horizontal slot with difficulty. Finish between the encroaching vegetation.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6C
4
Time Passages
Climb the wall above a rib to the break, swing right and sprint to finish. The Direct Finish is 6a and the Direct Start 6c.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f6B+
5
Cyclops
The wall left of the twin slots to a finish by the bee-hive.
1 user comment
 f5
6
Two Eyes
Climb past the sightless sockets. Finish via the bee-hive.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
f4+
7
Cornea
The wall to the right of the sockets.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
f5+
8
Willy Simm's Silly Whim
Climb the tiny blunt arete to the sandy break.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
f6C+
9
Retina
Head left towards the left-hand side of the shrubbery.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
f5
10
Nameless
Take a direct line into the right-hand side of the hanging gardens.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f4
11
Eliminate
The vague groove leads to a leftwards exit.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f3+
12
Goliath
Climb the wall heading for the right-hand side of the beehive and with a crucial stretch for the break.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
f5+
13
Square Four
Balance up to the four neat square-cut holes and then use the left-hand pair to finish. Without the holes is more like 6a and...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
f4
14
Greeting
Tricky moves below the break. Avoiding using the right-hand pair of holes is difficult.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f5
15
Handshake
Climb the wall to the useful pinch-grip just below the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
f5
16
Pisa Wall
The short wall into the left edge of the notch at the cliff top.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
f3+
17
Warm Up
Warm up on the wall just to the left of Straight Crack.
 
1 Stars
f5
18
Straight Crack
The rather battered pseudo-crack is the easiest offering on the wall. Oddly it would probably get 4c on Stanage! It is best to...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
f3+
19
Eliminate Wall
The bulging wall between the two ill-defined cracks is short but manages to be quite pumpy.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
f5+
20
Mankey Road
The vague curving right-hand crack is pushy and keeps going.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
f5+
21
Monkey Grip
Climb the smooth wall passing a useful hole early on and finishing over a small overhang. Pleasant.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f5
22
Green Streaks
Twin parallel bogey-lines (or wet streaks!) mark the route.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f5
23
Fingers
Trend right up the wall to a good break, then really stretch for the gritty break.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
f5+
24
Bushy Tale
Climb straight up the wall to another tricky finish.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
f5
25
One Move
The wall below the end of the railings a bit more than a one move wonder though the one finger pocket is fun!
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
f5+
26
Thumb Screw
Use a bore-hole to start then go.
1 user comment
 
Technical
f6A+
27
Commando
2m left of the edge of the wall. Use a sharp slot on the left for the last move to the top. A dyno from the break to the top is...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
f6A+
28
Gorilla
Just left of the edge of the wall; a dyno or static - you choose.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
f5+
29
Pisa Traverse
The low-level traverse is the most popular piece of climbing here and sees constant horizontal traffic. From Gorilla to Two...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
f6B
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For PEX HILL

    The Abort
    "HVS 5a, like One Step, but with a balancy top-out." 02/Jun

    Catalepsy
    "tried this last yr and couldn't quite manage it. Since then a some vigorous 'cle..." 25/Jun

    Harvey Wallbanger
    "Definitely called Harvey Warbanger in the old Al Rouse guide (Pex Hill section b..." 30/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "I think the start of Hart's is one problem that demonstrates the differences in ..." 26/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "E3 6b *** (OS Lead, no mats). A very fine route which is well worth leading. The..." 02/May

    Staminade
    "The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he did not exi..." 15/Apr

    Staminade
    "I stand corrected, oh great one. So you still exist and haven't turned into an u..." 30/Jan

    Staminade
    "Having read the comment on Staminade not being led...nope it was lead regularly ..." 21/Jan

    Dateline
    "Did this and cobweb crack. This is much harder particularly as it was very damp..." 28/May

    Hart's Arete
    "Nailed the start today. Saw a guy working it in the wrong way (starting to the l..." 12/May

    Too Bold for Steve Boot
    "benchmark pex hil 5b this. don't cheat..." 10/May

    Straight Crack
    "I would push the grade up just because the top outs so crap. Dont be tempted to ..." 01/May

    Breakaway
    "Well done whoever did the wire brushing, you have brought it down to your level...." 11/Apr

    Catalepsy
    "I find the crux is the move after, but that's because I'm a short ar*e" 05/Apr

    Black Russian
    "how do you do it. I think Im on the right route but its ver close to wallbanger...." 05/Apr

    Bermuda Triangle
    "The starts hard when the foot ripples are wet and slimy! Feels on the tougher si..." 07/Feb

    Padarn Dance
    "Damn. They used to do that stuff in the Black Dog as well..." 07/Feb

    Padarn Dance
    "No Andi. The Padarn. All the clues were there for the taking." 07/Feb

    Padarn Dance
    "this wouldn't be Ian Lonsdale's pub the Black Dog would it?" 06/Feb

    Cosine Alternative
    "I agree it's not 6b, prob hard 6a, but it doesn't ease of as much as Bermuda" 31/Jan

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