Dove Crag (Buttermere)

Adjacent Areas
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Early morning sun
90 mins

NY 177205 700m. NE Facing. These crags are well hidden and as a result perhaps don't attract the attention that the routes deserve. A prolonged freeze is required, to bring what are some of the Lakes best pure ice routes into condition. You will always take the risk that the routes are not in condition and have a disappointing walk out, when other venues will give you a guaranteed route. Persevere because it's worth it if you get lucky. Approach: From Lanthwaite Green take the faint path which contours above Gasgale Gill. At the second ruined building a slight natural corridor leads up and eventually easier ground can be traversed rightwards to the base of the crag. Approx 1hr 30mins. Descent: If snow conditions allow descend snow slopes NE of the main crag. Failing this it is safer to descend to Coledale Hause and pick up the Gasgale Gill Path. On a nice day you can descend Lad Hows very quickly.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
Spiral Gully
150m. The obvious twisting gully line about 60m from the right hand end of the crag.
Dove Crags Left
The gullies and buttresses can be climbed just about anywhere at any grade
Robinsons Gully Top 50
190m. 1)The gully line starts about 30m up the crag to the right of Dove Crag Gully. Thin ice is normally encountered and gear...
3 Stars
S-VI 6
Dove Crag Gully
165m. 1)Climb the wide chimney by ice on its left wall to pull over a chockstone. Continue up the snowslope to a belay on the...
3 Stars
S-IV 4