Scoop Face

Trad
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill

The central part of the cliff has its best known feature climbed by its most famous route; Scoop Face. This was a test-piece in years gone by and the eroding ground and polished holds mean that it is still no push-over 90+ years on. The newer variations offer quality extra ticks for those who enjoyed it first time.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Keep Corner
12m. The groove left of the jutting buttress was popular in days of old, hence the polish. Awkward but well-protected and a...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
2
Keep Arete
12m. The steep left arete of the buttress is climbed passing the remains of a small thread at half-height. Delicate and a...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS
3
Scoop Direct
12m. Climb steeply into the scoop then balance up its left edge using a thin crack before finishing straight up or rightwards...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
HVS
4
Scoop Face Top 50
12m. The classic of the crag and low in the grade. Using glassy slopers reach a good hold (5b for the short) and attain a...
22 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
HVS
5
Scoop Face Direct
10m. Climb left from the block with difficulty (HVS 5b for the tall), up the wall and into the centre of The Scoop via a good...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E1
6
Scoop Wall
10m. Climb the steep wall on spaced holds to reach the right edge of The Scoop. Jig left then right to finish, neatly...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1
7
Footstool Left
8m. The wide crack that passes to the left of the tall tooth is a bit of a struggle at the bottom and manages to feel rather...
2 user comments
 S
8
Piano Stool
10m. Laying away up the steep front face of the tooth is a bit artificial. If successful continue up the arete above.
 
Technical
HVS
9
Footstool Right
8m. The oft-green groove to the right of the tooth has good holds and good protection and is worth doing when dry.
 
1 Stars
HVD
10
Layback
8m. Climb the pleasant flake and groove above with a slightly blinkered approach, though the moves are good enough.
 VD
11
Combs Climb
8m. Follow the thin crack throughout. A good micro-route though avoiding a foot in the previous climb might be difficult.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
S
12
Staircase
8m. The well-named feature leads left then right to a finish up the groove just to the right of the previous route.
1 user comment
 HVD
13
Come on Eileen
10m. The narrow face right of the Scoop to a ledge then follow the arete on the left passing an odd hole.
 E2 5c
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

    Combs Climb
    "Avoiding holds in the routes to the left or right is nie-on impossible and would..." 10/Aug

    Slanting Crack
    "Definitely HVD at most." 04/Jun

    Fat Man's Chimney
    "Excellent fun on a day of howling gales & sleet. The most sheltered route on..." 01/Nov

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