The Crack and Central Tower

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill

The tallest buttress on the cliff is home to some of the very best outings here. Routes such as The Crack and Nozag would be immensely popular were they over on the Eastern Edges. Further right is the second most impressive part of the cliff has a small selection of worthwhile and quite long climbs in a setting that is far from central.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Two-step
10m. Follow the short arete on its left edge. It proves to be a bit lichenous and not too well-protected in the lower part.
2 user comments
 HVD
2
Fat Man's Chimney
8m. The deep rift is an outing for the gravitationally challenged. Careful use of outside footholds can ease things a lot.
2 user comments
 M
3
Plankton
8m. A poorly-protected and technical smooth wall climb. It feels like it is on the wrong cliff.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Fluttery
E4
4
Deep Crack
8m. Obvious from the name. Pleasant moves lead up the crack, starting from the base of the chimney and keeping left.
 VD
5
Deep Chimney
8m. This dark fissure cuts deep behind the buttress, severing it from the hillside behind. Get stuck in for maximum pleasure....
3 user comments
 
Fluttery
Graunchy
HVD
6
Birthday Climb
14m. Start as for The Crack. Step left from this to reach a hidden flake set in the left arete and follow this strenuously to...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS
7
The Crack
14m. Climb the crack to a recess (a bit of a boulder problem) and follow the excellent steep fissure through the overhang and...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS
8
Nozag
14m. Climb a crack to the arete of the buttress. Where it starts to slant away right, pull onto the face and follow a thin...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
VS
9
Zigzag Crack
12m. Follow the previous route but stay with the diagonal crack all the way to reach the wide fissure and an easy finish.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
10
Zig-a-Zag-a
12m. Climb the groove to a ledge then the wall immediately right of the chimney. Beware of an unexpected loose block that lurks...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
11
Long Climb
14m. Climb the blocky groove to a ledge then select a finish. The main angle is the easiest and there are trickier options to...
 VD
12
Central Tower
12m. A green groove leads to a ledge on the right, step out left to another ledge and finish by the groove on the right....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
13
Atropine
14m. Excellent and exposed. Climb over a flake to a ledge (tricky) then take the slabby ramp and thin crack to more ledges....
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS
14
Primadonna
12m. From the top of the ramp, climb the arete on its right-hand side throughout. Difficulties are short but serious and very...
 
Reachy
Fluttery
E4
15
Belladonna
12m. Devious though with some good moves and a certain logic to the line. Follow Primadonna up the right-hand side of the arete...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E2
16
The Ugly Bloke
12m. Fierce and serious with only so-so gear. The wall above Belladonna is climbed on tiny holds to a poor pocket. From here...
 
Technical
Fluttery
E3
17
Green Crack
14m. From the ledge at the start of the previous three routes, follow the groove trending right to a steep final section. It is...
 
1 Stars
S
18
Morocc'n Roll
16m. The thin crack slanting up the steep slab leads to a groove and higher, a ledge (possible stance - an old peg may be in...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
19
Syringe Benefit
16m. The right-hand crack is tricky to start, then continue in the same line to a finish as for Morocc'n Roll.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
20
Peg Crack
16m. The thin once-pegged crack gives good moves although the tottering grot above rather spoils things.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

    Combs Climb
    "Avoiding holds in the routes to the left or right is nie-on impossible and would..." 10/Aug

    Slanting Crack
    "Definitely HVD at most." 04/Jun

    Fat Man's Chimney
    "Excellent fun on a day of howling gales & sleet. The most sheltered route on..." 01/Nov

    Keep Arete
    "That explains why I couldn't find any thread on saturday. Managed to get a dodgy..." 02/Oct

    Studio
    "I attempted this in the rain. Clipped into the stuck nut and stuck cam, went up..." 30/Sep

    Central Tower
    "Getting into the upper groove is quite exciting when soloing! Seemed to be plen..." 11/Sep

    Keep Arete
    "The small thread that is about 5 m up got destroyed on Sunday. Someone tried to..." 29/Jul

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