WILTON 1


The Wilton complex of quarries (from 1 through to 4) overlooks Egerton, to the north of Bolton and is reached in minutes from a collection convenient parking places. Wilton 1 is arguably the finest cliff in Lancashire with well over 200 routes, many of which are hard or very hard. Although the thin cracks, with which the place abounds, were originally climbed with aid, the area was never the popular practice-ground that the eastern Peak became. Because of this many of the cracks are in near-pristine condition, making them worthy of the attention of any visiting thin-crack meister. Scattered amongst the hard routes is a reasonable selection of more moderate fare that give the chance to look at the harder routes and imagine - maybe one day! Those who find Wilton 1 a bit intimidating should enjoy Wilton 2 and 3 where the setting and the spread of grades are a little more amenable as is the angle of much of the rock.

Routes

85 trad routes (M...E8)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Chimney Buttress
This popular piece of rock on the left side of the quarry is split by the shallow cleft of Wombat...
13
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
The Prow
The sunniest piece of rock in the quarry has a small collection of excellent routes and is the most...
24
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
White Slab
The tallest face in the quarry, and white when it is dry which is fairly infrequently. Under the...
6
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
The Grey Wall
The tall right-hand end of the Grey Wall rises from behind a heap of grassed-over quarry spoil. All...
9
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Red Wall
A neglected part of the quarry but with some quality rock. As is often the case the best routes...
8
Trad
Morning sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
999
The last section of the cliff has a small selection of worthwhile routes on good rock. They don't...
5
Trad
No sun
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
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  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For WILTON 1

    Wombat Chimney
    "Finish is solid and reasonably clean at the moment." 31/Aug

    Cameo
    "I thought the gear was bomber, tricky bits always separated by rest ledges, and ..." 11/Jun top50

    Cheat
    "pretty standard for E3 5b. how hard you think will depend how many times you ch..." 12/May

    Fingernail
    "Tried this today, struggled to get off the ground the left start is a lot harder..." 21/May

    Chocolate Girl
    "Apparently reachin the crack is the crux, and the 'four pegs' might be better de..." 24/Mar

    Adrenaline
    "Reclimbed the other day by T.Dunn after the loss of the flake hold at the base o..." 10/Aug

    Supercrack
    "superb - would be a total classic if it didnt get so dirty. E3, despite some of ..." 19/Apr

    999
    "Would be worth 3* if it wasnt so dirty..." 13/Apr

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