STONEY WEST


The small crag of Stoney West is a continuation of the main Stoney crag on the north side of the A623, just beyond the side road turning up to Eyam. It has had two main phases of development which has left it with two distinctly different styles of climbing. The 1980s phase picked out most of the best rock leaving the crag with some reasonable trad lines, including a potential classic - Northern's Can't Climb. More recent bolting efforts have sprinkled sport routes along the length of the crag. There are some good new additions and one or two less good ones. Whatever the quality, they are sure to be popular.

Routes

21 trad routes (S...D)
34 sport routes (5a...7a)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Twang Buttress
The most sheltered of all the buttresses with plenty of tree cover. The undercut base provides...
8
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Northerners Buttress
The best rock at Stoney West is found on Northern's Buttress with its classic climb up the...
8
Trad
Early morning sun
Uphill

10 mins

sheltered
Main Area
The main section of Stoney West offers several walls split by cracks and ivy. The routes on the...
39
Sport
No sun
Up and down

10 mins

sheltered
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