BLACKNOR BEACH


Blacknor Beach is well known for gentle seaside sport climbing and is often inundated with fledgling climbers making their first brave steps into an exciting new sport. Rather less well known is the collection of boulder problems scattered amongst the numerous gigantic boulders. The bouldering here has a serious feel about it and is not for novices or the faint-hearted. The landings can be rocky and serious so multiple mats and attentive spotters are essential. The rock is rough and occasionally sharp so your hands will take a beating. The lines are big and proud, and often committing - this is the 'Wild West' of Portland bouldering.
Until recently there has only been a handful of sporadic attempts to develop the bouldering in this area. This guide covers the three areas with the shortest walk-ins, which, not surprisingly, have seen the most development, primarily at the hands of Marcus Dymond and Ben Stokes in 2014. Jimbo Kimber and friends climbed a few boulder problems whilst bolting routes at the Lunar Park, but these have been left for your own discovery.

Routes

82 boulder problems (f2...f7A+)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Diamond and Triple Slabs Area
No description as yet.
22
Bouldering
Lots of sun!
Downhill

17 mins

Waterfall Area
No description as yet.
30
Bouldering
Morning sun
Downhill

15 mins

Fallen Slab Area
No description as yet.
30
Bouldering
Lots of sun!
Downhill

12 mins

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