THE NEW CUTTINGS


The sheltered bays of the New Cuttings are home to some fine technical challenges, often highball, above flat landings. The New Cuttings has been the traditional forcing ground for bouldering in Dorset with Pastoral (f7B), Guy Fawkes (f7C+) and My Chemical Romance (f8A) each holding claim to be the hardest in the county when first ascended by local strong men Oxley, Kimber, and Kennard. The quality of the problems is high and it is often worth investing time picking a long-term project and working it. There are classic ticks throughout the upper grades.

Routes

64 boulder problems (f4...f8A)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Playground
A collection of relatively steady problems for tackling before a session on one of the hard...
13
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

sheltered
Pastoral Bay
Fine walls of dripping flowstone with some crimpy and technical problems. Phat Slapper is the big...
11
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Sub Youth Bay
An excellent sector with some of the best hard problems in Dorset. Though the landings are flat,...
16
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Razor Face
A fine face of flowstone. Good conditions are essential to get a return on your efforts.
9
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Tipping the Scales
Another area with technical climbing, but at a more amenable level than the sectors to the left....
15
Bouldering
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For THE NEW CUTTINGS

    Gunpowder Plot
    "yeah ok - got it today and it felt really easy, it's just a power thing... good ..." 30/Sep

    Gunpowder Plot
    "took a look at this and the start seemed nails.. couldn't figure out my feet.." 30/Apr

    Phat Slapper
    "I didnt have a lot of time and didn't notice the flow undercut. I went fully dyn..." 01/Feb top50

    Phat Slapper
    "What low undercut? My right hand is on the flow undercut, my left on the high c..." 23/Jan top50

    Phat Slapper
    "But I went for the dyno with my right hand from the low undercut(!) and my left ..." 26/Oct top50

    Firestarter
    "Come to think of it, I've done it and it didn't feel that hard. If I can do it, ..." 23/Sep top50

    Gunpowder Plot
    "Once you work it out it's an awesome problem for the grade. Feels loads harder b..." 07/Feb

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